Beagling

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  • Last Post 22 December 2014
OU812 posted this 20 December 2014

Bore ride section of this bullet was too small diameter so i had to make mold cast bigger. Here is the way I beagled a steel Lyman 224 caliber mold.   I used a spring loaded center punch to raise four areas on one mold half (halve without alignment pins). The spring loaded punch delivers  equal pressure to raise these points equally. Next I sanded raised areas on a flat surface such as a piece of glass and 1500 sandpaper. Sand off more of raised area if bullets cast too large. If you sand off too much, just go back and snap or repunch each crater made by punch to raise again.    Drive alignment pins in deeper using a 1/8” flat punch if mold halves do not align because of .002 gap between halves.

  This method does not interfere with venting like aluminum tape method will. 

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mckg posted this 20 December 2014

That is ingenious, but I am concerned about the longevity of these spots. I took bad habits with LEE molds and found that I could wear iron ones pretty fast at the pins holes. Yours looks like you know much better and it might not be an issue :).

It is also interesting that you found venting to degrade with tape, as my experience went the other way (with LEE molds...there's not much real estate on Lyman blocks). I always leave clearance around the cavities.

Anyway if anybody has difficulties finding aluminum tape, Dollar stores have some around here.

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OU812 posted this 20 December 2014

This Lyman mold is the only mold I have needed to beagle. I have lapped molds larger, but that is another story. The tape left a gooey mess once mold heated up and only added .001 larger diameter once sticky goo squeezed out and foil settled or worked thinner.   You can always center punch more areas if you feel that four is not enough for longevity.

I lightly chamfered alignment pin holes using a case chamfering tool then drove pins in a tad deeper for better alignment. I also use anti seize lube in pin holes to prevent wear. I try to close mold carefully without damaging it also.

 

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OU812 posted this 21 December 2014

Here are the Lyman 225646 bullets that I cast after beagling. Bottom pour pot temp was 800 degrees using linotype. Bullets diameter increased .003” and without fins. I made a small gas check flaring tool from .250” round steel rod to flair checks to fit larger shank. I can flair 50 checks pretty quickly using this tool.

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OU812 posted this 21 December 2014

Here is tool and flaired check resting on bullets base...very easy fit without shaving lead. The 22 caliber checks can be flaired with hand pressure very easily.

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gnoahhh posted this 21 December 2014

Nicely thought out. Interesting that no fins occur. Does that happen with softer than lino alloys?

I made a similar GC flaring tool, plus one for squaring/sharpening the bottom edges and flattening the bottoms of home made copper and aluminum checks I buy from people to make them look like store bought ones. I mount them in an antique little arbor press for utility.

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oscarflytyer posted this 21 December 2014

Not beagled one yet. But had an old Lee tech suggest to use cigarette wrapping paper, and bees wax to stick it to the mold face.

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OU812 posted this 22 December 2014

Keep in mind that I was using a bottom pour pot with mold held about 1/4” away from spout. This created less pressure inside mold. Pressure casting with ladle or bottom pour method may cause finning. Usually harder alloys such as linotype will fin more than softer alloys.

The cigarette paper trick sounds interesting. I wonder if the bees wax is strong enough to hold tin foil. Try not to block vent lines.

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John Alexander posted this 22 December 2014

I like the spring loaded center punch idea and will give it a try next time.

I have been using plain old aluminum foil glued on with Elmer's white glue. Whatever number of layers  needed.

The glue is an unlikely choice and doesn't want to wet the foil but it works OK anyway, stays put and easy to remove when you want to. John

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OU812 posted this 22 December 2014

So far after beagling with center punch the raised areas have not receded. Diameters are very consistent and bands filled out verywell. Far fewer culled bullets.

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mrbill2 posted this 22 December 2014

Seem we both hit on the center punch idea. But then I decided to give this a try and drilled and taped the punch marks for small set screws. With a mike you can set them up to what ever you need. There are also four set screws that come in on the other side of the mold to lock the adjustment screws in place.

As far as the aluminum tape, try some 3M Aluminum Stovepipe tape. This tape is good for 600 degrees and stays put.

mrbill2

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OU812 posted this 22 December 2014

Now that's what I call adjustability. Good idea

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mckg posted this 22 December 2014

Why didn't we think about that!?! One adjustable mold fits all your guns....

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