I joined the forum a few months ago and CBA today. Just getting into casting, or maybe I should say I'm still collecting equipment. I have a melting pot, some lead and several molds, so I'm probably not that far away from my first cast. My casting will be for 9mm and 9x18mm.
Hello from SE of Seattle
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- Last Post 01 December 2016
9MM is a high intensity load cartridge and alloy softer than BHN 15 is a poor choice. Hardball Pistol and Lyman #2 are both BHN 15 and either is a good choice. If you have wheelweight with 1% or more Antimony your bullets can be drop chilled when casting and come close to BHN 15. Bullet batch heat conditioning is much more accurate and consistent
An excellent fit for any type action and cast bullets will show an inked bullet dummy round has the ink disturbed on chambering and the bullet not be too big to chamber easily. Any less than an ink verified fit reduces accuracy potential. Bullets flying all over the place and leading your firearms always traces to fit, alloy, barrel condition and least importantly lube. Don't imagine other reasons.
Gary
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is your 9 x 18 a makarov pistol, or maybe the neat vz/cz ? ... or ?
i use my russian steel mak to start new shooters ... lee mold or meister cast ; plain base .... gold dots for more serious stuff ...
welcome to the group... be sure to ask/contribute on any cast subject .... also use the search function here ... amazing amount of info in there ...
ken
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is your 9 x 18 a makarov pistol, or maybe the neat vz/cz ? ... or ?ken
I have a P64 and a CZ82; which I just picked up. I've shot a few rounds through both of them. I'll probably be cutting down 9mm Luger brass to 9x18mm. I have a lot of extra 9mm brass.
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9MM is a high intensity load cartridge and alloy softer than BHN 15 is a poor choice. Hardball Pistol and Lyman #2 are both BHN 15 and either is a good choice. If you have wheelweight with 1% or more Antimony your bullets can be drop chilled when casting and come close to BHN 15. Bullet batch heat conditioning is much more accurate and consistent
An excellent fit for any type action and cast bullets will show an inked bullet dummy round has the ink disturbed on chambering and the bullet not be too big to chamber easily. Any less than an ink verified fit reduces accuracy potential. Bullets flying all over the place and leading your firearms always traces to fit, alloy, barrel condition and least importantly lube. Don't imagine other reasons.
Gary Gary, like I said, I'm just getting into this and appreciate all of the info. When I get some of these issues figured out, I'll start. I picked up some COWW lead, that I'll have to figure out it's hardness. I know that there is a bunch to learn, so hopefully I'm on the right track. Thanks, and I know that I'll be asking a lot of questions.
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COWW that is true to formula has sufficient Antimony for drop chilling or heat treating to increase hardness but a certified alloy that drops the right hardness is much easier to work with and completely consistent. Rotometals has a wide variety of certified content bullet alloys, good pricing and free shipping on orders over $100. Get on their email sale list for their best bargains too:
Roto's certified Hardball Pistol at BHN 15 is currently on sale for $13.59/5 lb ingot. Hardball is 92% Lead, 6% Antimony and 2% Tin. That is sufficient Tin for excellent casting fill-out and sufficient strength for 9MM published cast loads. Their certified Lyman #2 is the same hardness but has more Tin and less Antimony for non fragmenting malleable hunting bullets that expand well. Certified #2 with 90% Lead, 5% Antimony and 5% Tin is on sale for the same price at Roto.
I also make a recreational alloy that is BHN 15 by alloying pure lead or soft range scrap with Linotype scrap at 1:1 by weight. The recreational alloy prints the same on paper as my certified Lyman #2 alloy hunting bullets and I use the recreational alloy for practice or recreation.
Gary
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