Need some HELP here!

  • 3.3K Views
  • Last Post 24 July 2008
RicinYakima posted this 04 March 2008

Working on the bunny gun's extractor. The extractor appears to be low carbon casehardened steel, and fairly complex as it is adjustable to extract or eject with force. Fairly complex and don't want to have to mill one out from scratch.:X

It appears that I only need about 0.12 inches extended up into the chamber to function. My thought is to inlet a piece of cold rolled steel into a square groove cut into the extractor, then shape it. It will have about 20X the surface area of the extension added.

Now I have 50/50, 60/40 and 63/37 tin and lead solders. Plus I have some 95/5 tin and antimony solder. My Internet search says the the 95/5 is “much stronger” than the tin/lead and “wets” better.

Do I need to find flux for the 95/5? With that much bonding area, will it hold?

Ideas, experience and thoughts very much appreciated. :cool:

Ric

Attached Files

Order By: Standard | Newest | Votes
CB posted this 04 March 2008

Ric, what about silver solder?

Attached Files

RicinYakima posted this 04 March 2008

I have about 5 troy oz. of StaySilver #45 from the Harris Company, Cincinatti, OH., but I've never found a flux that would work with it. I just can't get it to stick.

Brownell's Force 44 (96 tin / 4 silver) would work, but don't want to wait a week to get some.

Ric

Attached Files

argie1891 posted this 05 March 2008

Ric just suck it up and make a new extractor. what the heck you have pleanty of time. I know it took me at least 20 hours to make one for my bunny gun. argie1891

if you think you have it figured out then you just dont understand

Attached Files

CB posted this 05 March 2008

I have some silver soldering flux in the garage that works very well, when I go out to get the snow blower out to clean the %^%$#$(*&^ snow I will get the name of it for you.

Attached Files

RicinYakima posted this 10 March 2008

Well, guys, I borrowed some of the new flux for lead-free solder from Joe Gifford. It worked, but it took me an hour to get it to stick. I am the world's worse solderer:X.

Just can't make myself stop over heading it and burning the flux into carbon, but it got done.

Thanks to all who replied!:)

Ric

Attached Files

NITROTRIP posted this 05 May 2008

Ric,

I know you have your repair finished but if you tie into something else this might help you or someone else.

Flux coated silver solder is available at almost all industrial welding supply houses. (yellow pages) They look like small colored braseing rods. They even have instruction sheets on how to use it. One thing you won't find on the sheets is. Where you don't want the solder to stick, smoke (soot cover) the area with the acetylene flame only. Then carefuly clean the joint with a Q-tip and any fast solvent. Use a very small amount of flux ( chip it back off the tip of the rod 1/4 inch before you start) warm till the flux wets then let the steel melt the solder. The solder won't stick where the soot is on the steel. These old and sometime lost tricks make people think you know magic. HHmmm, could be that is what magic realy is???

Never be afraid to tinker, just know your limits.And push them a bit. That is how we learn. But think past the job and what it will affect.

Rick

Attached Files

RicinYakima posted this 06 May 2008

Rick,

Thanks for the tip, didn't know they made flux cover silver solder in sticks or rolls.

Tin/antimony solder didn't work. Leaded the barrel working on bunny gun loads, and the “lead” removing solvent, didn't touch the lead, but is very effective at disolving tin! Ate through my solder in 10 minutes.

Tried JB Weld, thought it was pretty solid for a about 20 rounds, but couldn't take the rotational pull and poped out.

If the silver solder doesn't work, I'll just spend a day and make one on the mill.

Thanks again for the tip.

Ric

Attached Files

Hank McMauser posted this 20 July 2008

Rick I'd like more info on your bunny gun project,I'm thinking of doin something similar maybe with a 38/357 bbl from numrichs, or using a mosin nagant barrel to make a .32 cal rifle, I currntly have a sb2 handi rifle in .243,and a stevens 940 20 ga, and was thinking of doing the insert for my stevens. much like you've done the 410/.32 insert.

Hank

Attached Files

RicinYakima posted this 20 July 2008

Hank,

Glad to help. Send me a PM and I'll give you my email adress.

Ric

Attached Files

30-30 Wesson posted this 24 July 2008

Ric , Rick and others.

3 to 5% silver / tin solder is what you should use. Lead / Tin solder is not strong enough. That flux covered rod that Rick mentioned sounds like silver braze rod, it is very strong but needs very high temperature and will affect the temper of the pieces you are attempting to join.

If the rod looks like brass rod and is stiff it is a copper based brazing rod. Silver solder looks silver and is soft and easily bent ( usually it is resin flux cored ).

Try using an acid based flux to 'tin' the surfaces at the joint. Don't worry if you are using resin cored solder, it won't matter. You can make your own flux by disolving zinc in Hydrochloric acid till the reaction stops. You now have Zinc Chloride flux. It used to be my job, when I was a lad, to make fresh flux for my dad when he had a guttering job to do and I would use pieces of galvanised iron for the zinc component.

An electric soldering iron will have enough heat for small parts. I use a piece of fiberglass rod, dipped in the acid flux, as a flux brush to rub the surface I am soldering, it helps with adhesion. (You heat the end of the fiberglass rod in a gas flame burning out the glue and you are left with a soft brush which is not affected by the heat).

Wash the acid off the surfaces and use a resin flux when you join the parts with more of the Silver solder. The solder should just run into the joint beautifully. Excess solder can be removed with a sharp blade.

I hope this info helps.

 

Attached Files

RicinYakima posted this 24 July 2008

30/30 Wesson,

thanks for the information. I ended up making one from scratch on the mill.

Ric

Attached Files

Close