Gun oil and grease

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res45 posted this 17 January 2009

I see there are some good alternatives to commercial bore cleaners and lead removers,I did a search but didn't fine anything on what you guys favorite alternative gun lubricants are.  I'm mainly looking for an all tempature oil and grease thats readily available,I have read where some like the lightweight synthetic motor oils and moly grease. 

I have several bolt actions in various military cal. and two  SKS semi-auto rifles.  I have been using Tetra  gun grease and Hoppe's bench rest oil,both which are about to run out soon,so I'm just maybe looking for a cheaper product I can find at a local auto parts store that will work just as good.

Thanks Ron

'Artisan' in Lead, Brass & Powder.

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KenK posted this 17 January 2009

I use 3 in1 oil as a general lubricant and rust preventative. 

My guns live indoors where either the air conditioning or heater run about 360 days a year so that is a big plus but I've never had any problems. 

I have found that almost always in my rifles, the first shot out of a clean cold barrel will hit in the group if the bore is lightly oiled with 3-1.

 

As far a grease; I've got a big tube of “Super Lube” synthetic grease I bought years ago at a fishing tackle store.  It works for me and was a lifetime supply for $4.99.

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JetMech posted this 17 January 2009

I use AeroKroil most of the time. We use it in aviation, and it's one of the best penetrating oils I've ever used and doesn't evaporate like WD40. Thought it was a big secret till I got on some of these forums and found that lots of folks use it. It's not normally found in stores. You order it direct from the factory in Nashville and, while it may seem pricey, a 13 oz can lasts me a year and coupons can be found that will get 2 cans delivered to your house for $10. 

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CB posted this 17 January 2009

Back in the 80s we had a military armourer shooting at our high-power club. He did a test then and found the GI grease in the can (or maybe now Brownells Lubriplate) was the best grease for firearms. Also then was Shooters Choise grease. I've used them both ever since, having not tride anything since.

I've been disappointed in the old commercial firearm oils (GunSlick, Hoppes, RemOil, tec.)  I've disassembled more than enough firearms for friends, that are dedicated hunters using commercial lubes, where actions, firing pins etc. have quit functioning, gummed up from such products. (Then again, most oils probably do over many years use).

I had mentioned trying synthetic lubes in cb lube to an old shooter in our Galesburg club. He told me when Mobile Synthetic oil got popular years ago, he tried it on a bolt-action 22 match rifle he always had trouble with, galling and binding. The synthetic motor oil made it slick and free of any further troubles with just one application.

Ron, don't be afraid to try any of the synthetic oils and greases on the auto-motive shelves or in lawn equipment stores, or whatever synthetic lubes you may have now for around the home. I find them to work exceptionally well................Dan

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res45 posted this 17 January 2009

Thanks for all the info,it's been a big help so far in giving me some ideas about what I want to do as far as keeping my cleaning and maintiance supplies as simple as possible but also be affective.

'Artisan' in Lead, Brass & Powder.

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Brodie posted this 17 January 2009

I use balistol; both to clean (cut 1to1 with water), and  to lubricate.  I live in Flagstaff, AZ where we go from 9o” F to -15' last year and 90% humidity during the Monsoon to 15 to 20% in the Spring and Fall.  It works for me, but I am going to  try some Ed's Red when I get around to making it up.

Brodie

B.E.Brickey

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jhrosier posted this 17 January 2009

For a light lubricating and preservative oil, I have been using the good old '60s vintage army bore cleaner for many years. It used to show up at the gun shows for about 25 cents per bottle. It is a light, acid-free oil, mostly. It doesn't seem to gum up and I've used it for years on some guns. It also doesn't attack stock finishes or cold bluing as near as I can tell.

Jack

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CB posted this 24 January 2009

I have the stuff that Jack mentioned, well proven G.I. lubes and preservatives. You get a lot for the money. Sometimes I do use Marksmen's Choice or is called Shooter's Choice?

When I come across a extremely fouled barrel, I use Gum Out Carb Cleaner, it works.

Jerry

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Dale53 posted this 13 February 2009

Here is the best treatise that I have seen on gun lubricants (I use Ed's Red for cleaning):

http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

Dale53

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JetMech posted this 13 February 2009

Thanks for the link Dale. That lays it out well. I found the part about moly disulfide greases interesting. While it may be a little messy (the black color), in aircraft work, it is the additive of choice in lubricants used in high load carrying applications.

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Ed Harris posted this 25 February 2009

Followup on Grant's Lubricants 101 article:

http://www.grantcunningham.com/blog_files/category-gunsmithing.html>http://www.grantcunningham.com/blogfiles/category-gunsmithing.html

"A grease which is readily available in less than 35 gallon drums is USDA H1 rated “food machinery grease."

This is clear, colorless, odorless, tasteless and nontoxic. Its purpose is for lubricating food processing machinery used in which “incidental contact with food is possible.” It is manufactured from pure USP mineral oil with a calcium hydroxy stearate thickener. Amoco FG was the particular brand I bought 20 years ago and which am still using, because a pound lasts a long time.

Any food service supply house or the W.W. Grainger catalog can locate USDA H1 rated grease in pound cartridges used for charging grease guns. They cost only a few bucks.

This stuff provides good corrosion protection, because it is intended to resist hot water wash-out, steam and salt spray. It shows four-ball wear scar results comparable to good lithium wheel bearing grease and is suitable for use on ferrous or nonferrous parts, brass, aluminum, plastics, stainless steel, even wooden rollers!

I was introduced to “food grease” by the late Harry J. Archer, a clandestine services officer. Para-milittaries in remote regions need lubricants which keep their equipment working in hot-wet, jungle environments, which have no tell-tale odor which gives their presence away to an enemy only a few feet away. Long range patrols may have to operate for weeks in hostile environments where potable water is scarce and troops will not be able to bathe frequently. Harry got this tip from Col. John George, (USA, Ret.) author of Shots Fired In Anger, and CBI veteran who served with Merrill in Burma. In RVN the MACV had to re-learn much lost field and tradecraft from these old WWII farts.#

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

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hunterspistol posted this 25 February 2009

  As far as lead removers go, I've been using regular old mineral spirits paint thinner-seems to work really good comparatively.

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R. Dupraz posted this 26 February 2009

I have not used any of these commercial “gun oils” or “exotic preservatives” for many years. Although, the old Hoppes was used for cleaning until I discovered Ed's Red.

One of the tools that I was trusted with during my stint with the SDHP was a new 870 12 gauge. And for most of that time it was carried in an issue leather fleece lined case on the floor of the front seat and up against the front of the seat. Probably the worst kind of case and place to put it. But that was regulation. After about 20 years the shotgun was then stored uncased and in a carrier that was attached to the roof of the squad above the back of the front seat.. A little better. A whole nother story which I won't go into here.

Anyway, in SD the temp can range from well below 0 in the winter to above 100 in the summer. Plus snow and rain. You can imagine what the inside atmosphere of that patrol car was like with all the extreme moisture and temp. changes every day during the course of all those  years. Let alone the fleece lined leather storage case laying on the floor of the front seat. Constantly heating up an cooling down, especially in the winter. Ever brought a cold gun into a warm house?

Common motor oil was what I used as a preservative and lubricant on that 870 for all those years of abuse. And save for a few dings on the wood and wear on the metal, my partner looked  almost as good after 25 years of working the road as it did when it was new out of the box. No rust  or corrosion any where.

When you think about it, motor oil has all the characteristics that we want in a gun oil/preservative and it's a whole lot cheaper than all these modern exotic concoctions that they try to sell us. Just figure the cost per ounce sometime. Or tear an engine down that has had a lot of miles on it but was taken care of.

So. I agree with Dan in regards to automotive preservatives and lubes for firearms. All I use is light motor oil and Ed's red. Second choice is Uncle Sam's CLP. And Ballistol for Black Powder guns. Cheap and effective.

R.

 

 

 

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sundog posted this 26 February 2009

Ed, thanks for that information. My friend and gun smith (who passed away a couple years ago) got me on to using Rig. That also is very good stuff.

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afish4570 posted this 01 March 2009

Rig grease on a chunk of a buffing bonnet (Sheepskin) has kept my blued guns rust free and finger print free for years.  An old bullseye pistol shooter got me on to this 30 yrs ago or more. Midway and Brownell should have it ( a 1# can lasts for many years) and I give new shooters alittle to get them started along with a sm. piece of sheep skin bonnet. Grease coating is kept thin so handling is basically not a concern unless you have just greased or regreased the bonnet....Old guy, old info.Somewhere I pickedup the the info to mix 5/50 Marvel Mystery oil and Dextron III Transmission Fluid.  What is this supposed to do, lubricate or act as a bore cleaner?????? My M44 Russian I have defies all cleaning products I've thrown at it since I boughtit Jan. 12th..... Using a SS brush and clean patch followed by a scrubbing Lead Cleaning Cloth keeps coming out black.  I Then swab dry and relube with another solvent (Hoppes 9, Hoppes Copper,Kroil,Kleenbore, Shooters Choice,Arnes Copper, Dillon,Millitary, 303 (English)WWII GI,Ballistol and several others. Looks clean to eye but patches still blackMight have to make up a batch of Eds Red. Also is Mobil 1 Synthetic Auto oil in grade 0W-20 any good for a gun oil?????:shock::shock::shock:afish4570

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Ed Harris posted this 05 March 2009

Marvel Mystery oil is OK, but no better than ATF in Ed's Red. Simply increases the cost, but some people like the smell better. Plain old Dextron II or a good grade of motor oil or USP mineral oil all work fine. Don't need anything fancy.

For aggressive cleaning needed for heavily fouled bores Kroil and JB is the best combination there is. For routine cleaning I use Ed's Red since I ran out of Mil-C-372B years ago.

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

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cityboy posted this 05 March 2009

jhrosier wrote: For a light lubricating and preservative oil, I have been using the good old '60s vintage army bore cleaner for many years. It used to show up at the gun shows

I assume you are referring to mil-372B bore cleaner. I bought a LOT it of back in the '70s when it was selling for a buck a quart and am still using it.  It works fine and does not affect the finish. It does a good job of cleaning out powder fouling and any buildup of bullet lube. I don't know how effective it is on leading.

Jim

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Ed Harris posted this 09 March 2009

Mil-C-372 bore cleaner works GREAT on leading. In the 1980s there was for a while a commercial bore cleaner made by one of the manufacturers of miltary more cleaner which was sold under the trade name “Lead Out."

These days if you want a firearm bore cleaner which works like the pre-1972 GI bore cleaner, Ed's Red is as close as you can get.

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

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cityboy posted this 10 March 2009

Ed

Thanks for the info. I have tried a couple of the newer bore cleaners (Blue Wonder and Gunzilla) and have not been too impressed; they are also quite a bit more expensive. If I live long enough and use up thr GI cleaner, I will make up a batch of Ed's Red.

Jim

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CB posted this 16 September 2009

I have a solvent mix that I use. I use a 64 oz clean bottle. Add 3 - 15 oz cans of GM Top Engine Cleaner. Mix in an 8 oz can of Kroil oil and 8 oz of white ammonia. You can substitute Sweets for the ammonia. This makes a good all around bore solvent for both Cast and Jacketed.

Stephen Perry

Angeles BR:fire

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JetMech posted this 17 September 2009

Stephen,

When I use Sweets, it has warnings about not leaving it in the bore. Does that apply as well to your mix?

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