Cleaning lube from cases after loading ?

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  • Last Post 19 February 2012
R. Dupraz posted this 11 March 2010

I am in the process of loading my yearly supply of lever gun silhouette ammo ( 38-55 / lee 250 gr PB and the RCBS 265 gr GC. by way of Hornady's AP press. This amounts to several hundred and I have, up to now, wiped each loaded round with a cloth saturated with alcohol to get the case lube off.

Well, I'm getting a little tired of this one at a time foolishness anymore and the CEO won't let me use her Maytag. The thought of putting them in the case vibrator / tumbler has crossed my mind more than once. But I don't think I want to chance making bullseye out of IMR 3031! 

 So,...any easy, simple, fast and effective solutions ? Oh, did I mention easy and fast?

Regards R Dupraz

 

 

 

 

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RicinYakima posted this 11 March 2010

Why do you want to take the case lube off the cases?

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LWesthoff posted this 11 March 2010

As I understand it, leaving the sizing lube on the cases lets them exert excessive pressure on the bolt face on firing; normally, a dry case expands and grips the chamber wall. I have successfully “blown out” cases (that had been shortened by firing too many reduced loads) by firing them as lubed, lightly loaded wad only (no bullet) blanks.

That said, I'd suggest that if Mr. Dupraz is firing reloads he neck size only, either with a carbide neck size die or better yet neck size only with a Lee collet die. They're not expensive; they give longer case life by a whole bunch, and as you might guess, I'm very impressed with them. In my opinion, they're about the best idea Mr. Lee has come up with.

Wes

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Dale53 posted this 12 March 2010

R Dupraz; I have loaded big bore rifle cartridges in bulk (500-1000 at a time). Further, I have done the same thing with pistol cartridges. Most straight was cases are sized with a carbide sizer and no lube. However, rifle cases have used lube. It is MORE than a pain to clean them after loading in my Dillon 550B's.

I save my “used” media ("for the purpose” corn cob media) and keep it separate from my normal tumbling media. I put a cap or two of mineral spirits in the media (I use the LARGE Dillon tumbler) and throw the loaded rounds in there. I watch the clock CLOSELY. I allow 15 minutes - no more and no less. 15 minutes tumbling will NOT cause any problems with the powder and fifteen minutes is long enough to remove ALL of the lube.

I immediately remove the loaded rounds from the tumbler after the 15 minutes just in case long time exposure to fumes could possibly damage the primers (unlikely, but “safety first").

Now, before you naysayers complain about tumbling loaded rounds - realize that ALL commercial loaded ammo is tumbled after loading. How do you think THEY keep them so shiny?

FWIW Dale53

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RicinYakima posted this 12 March 2010

Wes,

I clean the outside of cases that are loaded with full pressure where I want the case to “grip” the chamber wall to reduce bolt thrust.

However, with cast bullet loads, that rarely reach 30,000 CUP, the increased bolt thrust is less than factory loads and well within design limits. It also stops reducing head space with rimless cases, as you noted.

In Richard's case, if shooting a modern rifle in 38/55, I can think of only one good reason to ever remove it. And that is if the ammo is exposed to dust and dirt where he needs to keep the ammo clean.

Ric

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kolar55 posted this 12 March 2010

I have been using this method for a very long time and it works. Put some Coleman fluid in a coffee can deep enough to cover the resized cases (after sizing and before priming), swish them around for about 20 seconds, remove them into a different tray and use an old hair dryer on them while moving them around a bit. The Coleman fluid evaporates pretty fast. This would probably work quite well with alcohol too. Sure beats wiping them off one by one. Lonnie

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R. Dupraz posted this 12 March 2010

Ric & Wes:

I have always wiped the lube off the cases of my loaded rounds since I started reloading back in the 60's somewhere. Why, because that's what all the loading manuals said one was suppose to do for the reason that you stated Wes. Also, by leaving the cases greasy, any dust or crud can be carried into the gun. Not to mention picking up the empties after they are ejected on the ground. And, cleaning the cases just makes me feel good.

Although, the low pressure effect of cast bullet loads  does make sense, Ric, I do use two different loads. A reduced one for the 50 yd chickens and 100 yd pigs. And another with the RCBS 265 gr GC for the 150 yd turkeys and 200 yd rams. This one is quite a bit stiffer.

And then, there is the spray on dry case lube such as what Hornady promotes. But , though dry, you still have a lubed case in the chamber. Apparently this works ok. I'm thinking that I might try this but I'm cheap and have to use up my old RCBS greasy stuff first. 

 

Regards

R Dupraz

 

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NITROTRIP posted this 12 March 2010

R.Dupraz Ric & Wes have some great cleaning ideas, and the whitegas is one I have to try. What caught my eye was the thrifty statement about RCBS greasy stuff. The cheapist of course is to use what you already have. I have heard and seen that that greasy stuff is repackaged STP. I tried that side by side and there was no difference. What I use for case lube is Castrol cutting and machining wax lube. Works with the same effort as Imperial wax. Just touch a finger and rub togather then rub about 5 cases. $4.00 for a grease gun sized tube will last you for life. I ran out of sizeing lube and walked over to my Bridgebort and tried it out. I filled a old carmex container 6yrs ago with it and it is still half full. Cleans off easy too. You only use enough to see smeared fingerprints on polished brass. Did'nt mean to change the subject, just it is very easy to clean off cases. And dos'nt cost $8.00 for 500cases. 1 oz will full size 5000 -06 size cases.

Have a great weather shooting weekend,

Rick

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KenK posted this 12 March 2010

I use Hornady One Shot 99% of the time and it doesn't seem to leave a lot behind anyway.

I take an old bath towel and fold it in thirds and put it across my knee.  As I size cases I accumulate them in my left hand, five small cases like a 32-20 or three 30/06 cases, when I have a handfull I roll them all back and forth a couple times on the towel.  It doesn't slow me down much and when I'm done, I'm done.

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R. Dupraz posted this 12 March 2010

Dale53:

In one of my previoius posts, I wrote that I was going try Wes's method of using meadia laced with mineral spirits in a tumbler. Reading back through this thread I realized that that came from you. Sorry. All those “D's you know from one of the over the hill gang.

I just tried it and it works fine. Thanks

 

Regards

R. Dupraz

 

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JetMech posted this 12 March 2010

Dale53 wrote: Now, before you naysayers complain about tumbling loaded rounds - realize that ALL commercial loaded ammo is tumbled after loading. How do you think THEY keep them so shiny? Thanks, Dale. That's some very good information, along with the mineral spirits tip. :dude:

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Dale53 posted this 13 March 2010

I would like to add one comment. Be extremely careful of using gasoline in ANY form around your shop (that includes Coleman Fuel). I was an Insurance Claims Rep for thirty years. I can't tell how many times I investigated horrible accidents with someone using gasoline to clean auto parts in their garage or basement. The fumes can travel clear across a basement and be ignited by a hot water heater or someone walks up with a lit cigarette, etc. This is extremely dangerous. The injuries almost always are horrendous not to mention burning down your house.

Mineral spirits normally will not support a flame unless it is “wicked” (a wick will stay lit but does not explode). When I say “Mineral Spirits” I mean aliphatic mineral spirits (also called Stoddard's solvent or odorless mineral spirits).

Let's be safe, good people...

Dale53

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kidwalli posted this 21 September 2010

Lube resize/ deprime, M die then tumble lube with corncob and a LITTLE paint thinner(Varsol), re- prime, powder. seat bullet crimp if you must.

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biddulph posted this 27 September 2011

I put the empty sized cases in a bucket, enough hot water to cover with 5” depth, throw in some washing detergent and hand agitate. leave for an hour, rinse in fresh water under the tap and dry.

Lovely clean cases and they have an interesting colour.

I live in a hot climate and tend to put them into a mesh bag and hang them on the line while I go to work. All dry when I get home.

Actual work time for this method is short but the process plays out over a few hours total.

Works for me.

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Rockrat posted this 30 October 2011

Thats what I do. I use RCBS lube, water soluable, and put them in a bucket with hot water/dishwashing detergent. Let soak about 5 min. then put cases in a collander and spray hot water over them. Dump them in a aluminum mesh tray to dry. Summer in the hot sun, winter, I hang the tray over the shop heater till they dry.

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TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 31 October 2011

I use anhydrous lanolin for lube. I just wipe it off the loaded rounds with a paper towel. Leaves just a LITTLE on it. (Loading PB cast bulelts for .405 Win, .458WM and several .375's.

BUT, if you use a tumbler, try putting strips of paper towel in with the media - they soak up LOTS of dirt and crud.

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noylj posted this 14 January 2012

Bolt thrust is an issue at >60ksi or rear locking lugs at slightly less pressure. The whole issue has been blown out of all proportion. Except for the new BIG MAGNUMS, no handgun round reaches those pressure and bolt thrust is a total non-issue.

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ubetcha posted this 14 January 2012

when I sit down and start handloading my rounds,I take my time during the whole process.I take each loaded case and wipe them down with a towel.Nice and slow and relaxed.Helps for unwinding the body from the days BS.Having a little glass of scotch or Jack D to sip on doesn't hurt either.

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Little Debbie posted this 14 January 2012

For 30+ years I have been cleaning loaded rounds in a case cleaner. Started out with a rock tumbler and walnut shells with rouge. Progressed to corn cobb in vibrating cleaners, the RCBS rotary style, and when I was reloading commercially a cement mixer. I used lube on my 9 mm cases for easier sizing and to get more life out of the dies. Of course all of the rifle rounds were also cleaned. No need for a solvent, the cobb absorbs a lot of lubricant. Never had a problem with breaking powder down. If you are concerned about this, load a round and put it in your case cleaner for a couple of days. Pull the bullet and see what you have.

For most non- progressive loading I now decap and size, clean with an ultrasonic cleaner, dry with a heat gun and load. Lube is removed in ultrasonic bath.

Good luck,

Matt

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kidwalli posted this 19 February 2012

Try this: lube, decap/resize, clean the primer pocket and flare your cases then throw them in your tumbler to clean. I have found that a small dribble of varsol in your tumbler medium helps a lot. 10 minutes usually does it and if you use Alox this method removes it from your brass effectively. Your brass will be shiny clean and ready to prime, powder and seat/ crimp the bullet. Saves a lot of time and useless work. Just be sure to check you primer holes for any medium. Tumbling any thing with live primers or completely reloaded cartridges is not recommended.

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