how to paper patch i am new

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  • Last Post 04 February 2017
parkerhale1200 posted this 22 March 2012

Hey you all:D

Can anyone tell me in a simple way how i must get started in pp

i never did it, but i like to try it, no..... i want to try it.

I own a parkerhale1200 tx .308win and im in love with that rifle.

Casting,sizing,lubing is no problem to me (.308,309,310 and 311 sizing.) at 5 to 32bhn, with a ch4d .30 swagging set, i would like to hear every thing

How can i, in a simple and in a less cost affective way start this up, and then extent this after this experiment.

How do i start and what do i need???

Hope to hear from you and thanks in advance, with best regards parkerhale.

 

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corerf posted this 22 March 2012

Buy paul matthews book, the paper jacket . I just finish reading it cover to cover . it will explain everything better than a forum member can .

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parkerhale1200 posted this 23 March 2012

:(So there is actually no simple way to get started with safe experimenting???:(

Best regards, parkerhale

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Tom Acheson posted this 23 March 2012

You might consider going to the Shiloh rifle forum and look under Blackpowder shooting. There is topic called “thinking of trying pping". It has grown to 3 pages but has some helpful suggestions. There is also a handful of videos on the making of the PP.

Tom

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onondaga posted this 23 March 2012

parkerhale1200:

I am an experienced shooter but a pretty rank new guy paper patching. When you read up you will discover that for a .308 Win. , I don't think any of the bullet sizers you mention are small enough for paper patching bullets in your caliber. One of them would likely be fine after your bullets are patched but the bullet size before patching is a very critical match to your patch material first.

Gary

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Brodie posted this 24 March 2012

I would recommend going to the CAST BOOLITS web site and reading the “stickies” posted in the Smokeless powder forum section of their site.  Those boys have written a great deal more about paper patching than you will find here. Brodie

B.E.Brickey

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303PV posted this 27 March 2012

This website has a lot of information. http://www.public.iastate.edu/~jessie/PPB/PPB.htm

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raytear posted this 27 March 2012

I have not read it yet, but there is an article on paper patching in the latest issue of The Fouling Shot.

Good shooting! RT

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Goatwhiskers posted this 15 June 2012

I'm very fortunate in that I discovered the combo for my rifle very early in the game. I had already found that my .357Max has a .357 groove diameter and likes .359 GC boolits, so had a good starting point. I'm using RD359190 boolits. Only had to try a relatively small combination of powder charges and a couple of types of paper to find that mine likes the as cast boolit (.361) wrapped twice with tracing paper and sized to .359 to tighten the groups up. I do use a somewhat heavy charge of A1680 but am able to seat out and thereby reduce the pressure. Every gun is different and I know most size first and then wrap to .001-.002” over groove diameter but this is what worked for me with what I had to work with. Get into PP, it's fun, leaves the bore spotless, and really makes guys at the range wonder what you're doing. Goat

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Dirtybore posted this 23 January 2014

Personally, I would only paper patch a modern smokless rifle bullet as a last resort. The same goes for a muzzleloader. Now a black powder cartridge rifle is a horse of a different color. In that case, I use paper patched bullets and enjoy them.

Years ago I read an article in one of the Hollywood glossies about paper patching jacketed bullets. I tried it and found it to be a dismal failure. Well, that is if you dislike elongated holes in a target. My next experience was trying to paper patch 7mm bullets. That really taxed my patients because those small bullets just didn't like my fumbling thumbs, or was it the other way around? A 38 to 50 caliber bullet is something you can get your fingers on whereas those little 7mm's are like trying to wrap a needle.

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Dirtybore posted this 03 January 2015

There's a how to do it article in TFS #216, March-April 2012. Look for the article, “Paper Patch Bullets in Black Powder Cartridges, For Beginners” on page 21 of that issue. The author shows and tells how to make and install paper patches.

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Tom Acheson posted this 30 January 2017

I'm glad David pointed this category out. I too am going to give this a try and just started reading the Paul Matthews book on the subject. This should be interesting!

 

Tom

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45 2.1 posted this 30 January 2017

PH-

   Lots of advice here.... a little good and some very bad. You do not want to read the black powder guys directions, they patch to bore size or a little less and seat it into the barrel proper for the black powder to bump it to size. The smokeless guys patch to throat diameter and seat the patch where it snugs into the throat firmly.... that is what you want. Nominally you probably have a 0.311” to 0.312” throat... check it yourself. That is what the patched bullet should measure or about 0.0005” less. Your patching material should have about 25% cotton fiber in it for wet strength while rolling the patch on. What ever thickness of paper you have determines what bullet diameter you want to size to before patching. Two wraps wet will add about 3.5 paper thicknesses dried. I don't size after patching like some as it usually hurts accuracy some. The people who do size after patching get about 1 MOA with full loads.

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Brodie posted this 03 February 2017

Parker Hale 1200;

Let me give you a quick run down on paper patching.

1. Wrap a ribbon of your paper (tracing paper, computer paper, 25% cotton content paper) around the bearing surfaces of the bullet, and mark the place where the SECOND wrap meets the start.  This is your paper length.

2. If your paper comes in 81/2” X11” lengths (or longer) cut your strips across the bottom (8.5” long).  This gives you a little more stretch to the paper. 

3. Using the first strip of paper you marked cut your strips to length with about a 30degree angle on each end.  Cut so that the piece of paper looks like a parallelogram.

4. You can either cut your patches with a paper cutter, scissors, or hobby knife.  If you want to make a template old Venetian blind material works well as does sheet brass or Aluminum.  But, do not make the template until you have checked and adjusted the patch for length.

5. Lay the wet patch on your patching board (I use my paper cutter) with about 1/4 to 1/3 hanging over the edge. 

6. lay the bullet with point to the right on the paper leaving enough room at the bottom to twist the excess into a tail.  Be careful not to twist too hard as this is where it is easiest to tear the paper.

6. Lay the tail of the patch over the bullet.  It should wrap around the bullet without folding.  Place you finger on the patch and roll the bullet until the patch completely cover the projectile with two wraps.

7. It is important that the two ends of the patch meet.  That they not overlap, and that they but up against one another.\

8.  Gently twist the excess patching paper so that it forms a little pig tail.

9. Stand patched bullet on tail to dry over night.

 

Personally I size my bullet cores to .001 to .003” over BORE diameter, and patch to .oo1” to .002” over groove diameter.  However I have found better accuracy in rifles with larger chambers or throats if I size and patch the core so that it is a snug fit into a fired and un-sized case neck.

All bearing surfaces of the bullet must be covered with paper.

For smokeless loads:  Bore rider bullet designs are the hardest to get to shoot well.  Patch to just beyond the ogive.  I lube my bullets with Johnsons Paste Wax or just good old Turtle Wax.  Just smear a little on with your fingers.  If you size the patched bullet do so in a push through sizer ie. Lee type or the new NOE.

For loads I use the starting load for the same approximate weight jacketed bullet, and slower fine grained powders seem to work better.  You can easily achieve jacketed velocities with these things, and the cloud of paper fluff when you pull the trigger is a lot of fun too.

Brodie

B.E.Brickey

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BudHyett posted this 03 February 2017

Buy Paul Matthews book, “The Paper Jacket “. I just finished reading it cover to cover. It will explain everything better than a forum member can .
I totally agree. Paul Matthews even tells of the easy way to modify a paper cutter for mass production of the paper patch. 

Country boy from Illinois, living in the Magical Pacific Northwest

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45 2.1 posted this 04 February 2017

The Paper Jacket is fine for the very basics.......  about what Brodie posted. The specifics are lacking though, You want the bearing surface patched from the base of the neck to point of engagement in the throat. Until you measure the throat to get a diameter and find that length, you really don't know which bullet to pick. This isn't like normal cast bullets either! Follow the basic rules of fit and it works well.... don't and it probably won't.

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Brodie posted this 04 February 2017

I have never read Mr. Mathews book.  I wish that I had a copy.  When I started patching they were hard to find and money was a little tighter.  Since then I have had enough success that I am largely satisfied, and have enough chores and projects to occupy my time, so I just never bought a copy. 

Patching for smokeless loads is different than for black powder.  Smokeless powders just don't kick the bullet hard enough in the pants to bump it up to fit the throat, and you have to do that from the get go. 

I became interested in paper patching because of the hunting aspect: it lets me shoot a softer bullet at higher velocity without leading. It makes a more effective hunting projectile.  Brodie

B.E.Brickey

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