Caliber Advise On Rebarreling A #3 Ruger

  • 7.1K Views
  • Last Post 10 May 2013
GBertolet posted this 24 March 2013

I have a #3 Ruger in .22 Hornet, that I am in the process of rebarreling to a more useful caliber (at least to me). This is my first rebarreling project, and I was lucky to have an experienced person here, to guide me through the initial process on my recently purchased machinery. Some time ago I was given a 30" Douglas 35 cal 1-14 twist barrel blank, which slugs at .3572. That deceided the caliber. This weekend I (we) rough contoured and threaded and fitted the barrel. I am waiting to get the keyway cutter to make the extractor cut, and do the final chambering and barrel contouring. I was offered the loan of either a .357 mag or .357 maximum reamer. Do you loose much accuracy wise shooting .357 magmum or 38 specials in the Maximum chambering? The Ruger will be mostly shot offhand at the range with cast bullets only, and not likely to be used much for hunting.

Any opinions on which caliber would be the better choice?

Attached Files

Order By: Standard | Newest | Votes
6pt-sika posted this 24 March 2013

I would suggest you sell the #3 to someone who will appreciatte it for what it is .

 

Then you can take that money and buy you two or three H&R Handi Rifles in whatever cartridge you want .

 

But if you gotta tear the thing apart how about a 35/30-30 ?

Attached Files

6pt-sika posted this 24 March 2013

If it's gotta be a 357 MAG or 357 MAX I'd rather have the MAX !

 

There's really no need to shoot 38 Special or 357 MAG in the gun if you make it a MAX . Just change your loads to get 38 Special or 357 MAG velocities .

Attached Files

TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 25 March 2013

If you're looking at cast bullet velocities look at what type and how much powder you need - adjust the volume of the case (by selecting the right one) to match.

I'm working now on a #3 in .357 mag. for plain based cast you don't need the max.

On the other hand, what ranges? 100 and 200? 300 and beyond? Perhaps a bit long, but your 1-14 is a good twist for the 357008 if you can find one.

Attached Files

GBertolet posted this 25 March 2013

I plan on only shooting it at 100 yards max. I have a few 35 cal molds, 358311, 358156, 358315, Saeco 382, plus a few misc WC molds also. I hope to find something here that will shoot good. I think that this will be a neat toy, that can shoot light subsonic loads out of the 24” barrel, with less noise than a .22 RF, and be able to switch to some thumpers in the 2000 fps range when desired. I had considered the 35/30/30 or 35 remington, but I have so much .357 mag brass, that I deceided to go to the pistol caliber route. The nice thing about this project, is if desired, I can swap barrels back, and make it a Hornet again. I hope to give a range report when I get this project completed.

Attached Files

Keith posted this 25 March 2013

I have found the 357 mag to be more than adequate for the purposes you described. I shoot both revolvers and rifles in 357 in a similar way and shoot more of these than any other caliber. Recreation and experimentation are my main interests. I find that the heavier weight bullets are best and have a preference for those of 180 grains or so. I will be looking forward to hearing how this all works out. I also had a number 3 in 22 K hornet and similar thoughts of caliber changes but that would be off the course of this discussion. Keith DVM

Attached Files

RicinYakima posted this 25 March 2013

I would chamber it for 357, or short chamber for 38 special and cut the rim on the lathe. It is not the length of the case, but the throat that will determine accuracy. Well made 358156's will shoot 1.5 minute of angle accuracy out to 200 yards. You can also shoot them a real 1600 f/s from a rifle barrel. That will kill anything you want up to 250 pounds in the lower 48 states.

Attached Files

linoww posted this 25 March 2013

my Ruger #1 357 CHP shoots 250g bullets fine.

Ric show me some 3” 200 yard groups sometime with the 358156.I love that bullet but in my Whelen and #1 is been a 2-3 MOA bullet.My Dan Wesson .357 8” shoots 4” at 100 with it sometimes though.

George

Attached Files

RicinYakima posted this 25 March 2013

George,

Joe G. has the 1 and 1/2 degree 357 throater. Lino bullet sized to just fit into a fire formed case and seated to a push fit into the throat. My load is 15.0 grains of SR 4759 and SR primers. That shoots as good as I can hold with a 10X scope at 200 yards.

Ric

Attached Files

Iowa Fox posted this 25 March 2013

RicinYakima wrote: George,

Joe G. has the 1 and 1/2 degree 357 throater. Lino bullet sized to just fit into a fire formed case and seated to a push fit into the throat. My load is 15.0 grains of SR 4759 and SR primers. That shoots as good as I can hold with a 10X scope at 200 yards.

RicWhat bullet are you using with the 15 grains of SR4759. I tried the 358627 with 15 grains of powder and couldn't seat that long bullet far enough into the case on that compressed charge.

Attached Files

JeffinNZ posted this 25 March 2013

6pt-sika wrote: I would suggest you sell the #3 to someone who will appreciatte it for what it is . Yeap.

Cheers from New Zealand

Attached Files

RicinYakima posted this 25 March 2013

Iowa Fox,

In my 357 Martini the 357156 just barely has the lube groove in the case with the top driving band seated into the throat with thumb pressure. It isn't a compressed load for mine.

Ric

Attached Files

Ed Harris posted this 25 March 2013

Either .38 Special or .357 Magnum will work. What is most important is to have a chamber of the proper form. I've had good results with a reamer which cuts the chamber body to the minimum SAAMI dimensions as used for the pressure test barrel, but having the same 1-1/2 degree Basic throating (3 degrees total included angle) used on Colt .38 AMU wadcutter match autopistols. Or you could use a standard .357 reamer and follow with a .35 cal. rifle throater to fit your chosen bullet. The key is that you don't want the normal SAAMI chamber with abrupt 15 degrees basic origin of rifling and no ball seat.

My reamer was made by JGS and is marked “.357 NRA.” They still have the prints for it on file. In testing .38 Special wadcutter ammo in this .357 chamber, my BSA Martini cadet rifle with Unertl scope does 1-1/2” or less at 50 yards with good wadcutters, which is about the best factory stuff will do in a test barrel. My subsonic cast loads with 190gr. NEI #161A and 4.2 grs. of Bullseye shoot 3” or less at 100 yards, which isn't bad at all for a light rifle.

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

Attached Files

GBertolet posted this 12 April 2013

Update: Reamer should be here on Monday. My concern now, is cutting the extractor relief cut on the #3. I bought a 5/8” X 1/8” keyway cutter for the job. Not quite sure yet on how I want to set the barrel up for this procedure on the mill. Any advice on the best way? The barrel is cut to 24", and I am planning to follow the factory taper to the front of the forend, and leave it at .700 for the remainder of the barrel, giving me a little more weight forward. I expect about 8 to 10 oz heavier.

Attached Files

4060may posted this 13 April 2013

This is how I do it a key cutter. is difficult to cut an extractor groove on a Ruger No.1/3

Attached Files

Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 17 April 2013

hmmm .. any interest at all in an extremely laid-back match for single shot 35 cal rifles shooting no heavier than ... say 180 gr..... bullets ... based kinda on the Pat I. LAZEE-BOY rules ... ,,,, but for glorified bunny guns ..

beens i got no front stuffer, this might be a rig i could get together ... i like his 50 yards standing also ...

ken

Attached Files

argie1891 posted this 17 April 2013

if i were doing it i would take ric's advice and run a 1.5 degree throating reamer into the throat. i dont know how to describe most throats left by reamers except the word sharp and square and another way just plain not friendly to cast bullets. when you do it remember that a little metal taken off is all that is needed. ric's martini didnt do much untill the throater was turned a few time. argie1891

if you need me I will be at the range

Attached Files

TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 17 April 2013

What do you want for the Hornet bbl?

Attached Files

delmarskid1 posted this 18 April 2013

The 357 max makes a nice black powder cartridge. Like they say get the throat right and all are fine. A friend has 3 rifles in this and he can make jacketed bullets scoot like a 35 rem in light bullet weights.

Attached Files

GBertolet posted this 18 April 2013

TRK, I am not going to do anything with the Hornet barrel at this moment, as I am waiting to see how this project turns out. In case it bombs, I may want to convert it back. I do have RCBS dies, with .223 and .224 expander balls,, Lee collet neck sizer and several hundred new cases to go with the barrel, in the event I deceide to sell later. I will keep you in mind.

My box of reamers came. It turns out the .357 mag reamer is actually a cylinder reamer. I contacted Clymer Tool, and they said they could modify it to a barrel reamer for a nominal fee. So I sent it to them. I was looking at the 357 Maximum reamer that came also, and that has a very long gradual tapered throat. I wonder if I could run that partially in the .357 mag chamber, and turn it manually to get the more gradual throat taper? Anyhow, the reamer issue is the holdup.

Attached Files

GBertolet posted this 09 May 2013

Update on the Ruger #3 Rebarreling:

The modified reamer came back from Clymer at no charge. Thank you Todd @ Clymer Tool. I cut the barrel thread 1-16 and rough tapered the barrel on my lathe. All barrel work was done between centers with a steady rest. I chambered the barrel to 357 mag allowing for zero headspace. The block rubs the back of the case just before coming fully into battery. Afterwards I ran the 357 max reamer, getting the degree of throat, as the max reamer has a long gentle throat. I finished this up by hand, so I didn't over do it.

I ran up the barrel in the receiver tight, and drilled and tapped the scope blocks, so i had an orientation point for cutting the extractor groove. I put blue Dykem on the breech of the barrel and traced out the extractor outline with a scribe. I made the cuts using a 5/8 X 1/8 keyway cutter. It turned out the Hornet extractor was too long and protruded into the chamber, making loading of the dummy test rounds impossible. The rim of the Hornet is .350, while the rim of the 357 is .440. I used a 7/16” end mill, which is .4375 diameter, to trim back the ejector, getting it to the proper radius at the same time. After a little chamfering and deburring, it was good,

I made a graph on paper of the factory Ruger barrel dimensions, measuring every inch. I wanted a .725 diameter at the muzzle of the 24” barrel, so I adjusted the barrel dimensions accordingly, to come to this figure. Using the lathe, I cut steps every inch on the barrel, allowing a few thousandths extra for final finishing.

Here's the peculiar thing. I was planning to use a mill file on my lathe to blend in the steps on the barrel, as I was not at a constant taper. By chance, I had spoken to a gunsmith, who has built many custom rifles, who said I should make an adaptor to turn the barrel on my wood lathe. He said I should use a 7 inch angle grinder, with a flexible sanding pad at about 60 grit. The reasons I was given were, the wood lathe runs twice as fast as a metal lathe, giving a smoother cut, and you don't want the abrasive particles getting in the carriage, cross slide or on the ways of the good metal lathe. This worked better than I could have ever imagined. The steps were gone in no time, and I soon switched to 80 grit 1” shop roll, then to 320 grit, and finishing up with some crocus cloth. I have a 6" buffing wheel I followed up with, before giving  a quick cold blue to ward off any rusting.

This morning I went to the range to try out my project, after mounting a spare Bushnell 4X scope. I only had two types of ammo loaded at the present. 38 spcl @ 3.7 gr Bullseye w/ Saeco 382 swc @ 162 gr, sized to .358, cast of wheel weights, along with some 357 mag @ 15.5 gr 296, using the same bullet. The 38 spcl at 50 yards, was grouping 5 shots under an inch, while the 357 mag grouping was around 2 inches at the same distance, and POI was about 3 inches higher. The 357 mag accuracy doesn't proove much, as I have many molds for this caliber. Quite possible one of my gas check molds might proove better. I shot 75 rounds, with no leading whatsoever. I have a Hicks accurizer on the #3, and didn't even have it contacting the barrel. There might be some potential here also.

One of the next issues is whether to cut the end of the forend, getting rid of that awful barrel band groove.

Overall I am quite pleased with the results of this project, which was my first attempt at a rebarreling job.

 

 

Attached Files

Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 09 May 2013

neato ! ... going thru that sexercize myself ... got a varmint midway 357 barrel to do something on my #3 ( now a 45-70 ) ... leaning toward a very tight match chamber for a 357 mag ... now trying to keep the stock 45-70 extractor, so can easily switch back ... so may wind up with a 45-70 case shortened and necked to 357 ...


i plan to use a modified shotgun forearm ... not touching the receiver front, and long rectangular pillar bedded directly to the barrel ... this seems to work for the winchester single shots ...


hey, how about a grooved forearm off a old remmy 870 .... my buds would think i have a pump #2 ruger in 357 !! sometimes i think god truly loves me !!!


what are you using for scope mounts ?? redfield/leupold type ?

thanks, your postings gives me encouragement ... i gotta have a 35 of some kind !

ken

Attached Files

GBertolet posted this 09 May 2013

I have Redfield mounts and rings on the #3.

Attached Files

delmarskid1 posted this 10 May 2013

I like it. My wife and I share a fake '92 in 357 and it's one of my favorite guns to just go shoot.

Attached Files

Close