LEE Mold Changes

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  • Last Post 27 July 2013
Pigslayer posted this 06 June 2013

Finally got my new LEE mold today after a 2 month backorder. Saw that LEE has made some cool changes to their mold blocks. They changed the type of alignment pins and it looks to be a welcome change . Also note that LEE is now using Allen screws to fasten their handles to the mold blocks. They are using different shape of extruded aluminum for the mold blocks with beveled edges. Can't wait to cast up some s of these 125 grainers for my .38 Special. See pics.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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delmarskid1 posted this 07 June 2013

Good ideas. The old two cavity molds were a little weird to close.

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JeffinNZ posted this 07 June 2013

Much better. Still astounds me how Lee can make their products in the US for the prices they can. Great company.

Cheers from New Zealand

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j35nut posted this 07 June 2013

I like it

A set screw for the sprue plate screw and some Bull plate lube and you could probably cast uninterrupted for a couple hrs.

----J

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Pigslayer posted this 08 June 2013

Cast up & sized about 100 of these little guys last night. Can't wait to see how they shoot in my .38 Special snubby! .>

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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4570sharps posted this 08 June 2013

I noticed the changes on a 41 mag mould I bought last summer. Welcome improvements to say the least.

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mckg posted this 08 June 2013

I've been thinking about that little bugger for 9mm, what diameter do they drop at, with which alloy?

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AWOL posted this 09 June 2013

I purchased this new style Lee mould in .350 RB, and used it today for the 1st time. I thought it worked well.

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Pigslayer posted this 09 June 2013

mckg wrote: I've been thinking about that little bugger for 9mm, what diameter do they drop at, with which alloy? They're dropping .361, +/- with Lyman #2. Didn't take long at all to get that mold broke in! Sprayed it with brake cleaner to clean the oil off, warmed it up & had at it! Was casting perfect little gems in no time. Found that due to the smaller mold blocks I don't see as much chance for frosty bullets. Although I use a PID controller I still have to leave my mold blocks open for about 10 - 15 seconds between casts to avoid frosting with the older larger blocks. With these new slimmer mold blocks I don't seem to need to do that. Seems like it would feed & shoot well in your 9MM. Plenty of room to size down too.

Pat..>

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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mckg posted this 09 June 2013

Thanks Pat. I was wondering about the funny shape (mold's), and always thought that LEE's people weren't actual users of their stuff... but it looks like they've done their homework.

btw, I cannot see venting in the halves...

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Pigslayer posted this 09 June 2013

The venting is there. Just hard to see.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Rich22 posted this 09 June 2013

Have said mold in RNFP in 38 cal. Drops out at .3585 to .360: Sized too .358; lubed with SPG; load with Red Dot; Shot out of my 1970 M19! best groups run about 1.70” for 4 rounds out of 5! Off bench @ 50yrds. Cast metal was 18:1. Fun casting, fun loading on my Dillion, best of all; fun shooting! Nice Mold!

Was told too use caution with Lee molds as they were not round! Well the “More I shoot; The luckier I get” Works for me!!

Good Shooting; Rich22

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mike morrison posted this 09 June 2013

pigslayer I have used that bullet from a lee six cavity for several years for my cowboy loads. could not estimate the thousands I have shot with scrap range lead with enough tin added to make them cast well. 3.5 clays and they shoot well from my single actions and my rifle. I lube them with a .359 die and have no problems at all. you will find good results with that bullet. enjoy. m

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hunterspistol posted this 09 June 2013

Really good pictures in this thread, Pigslayer! I've been shooting a lot of 9mm lately, prompted me to order a Lee Pro 20 and some six cavity molds. I'm going to try the “lotsa bullets production” method and see if I can get something out of it. 

Really nice two cavity Lee you're holding there.  I have one in 44, and a few NOE molds around here somewhere. 

 Good Luck,
       Ron

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Pigslayer posted this 09 June 2013

hunterspistol wrote: Really good pictures in this thread, Pigslayer! I've been shooting a lot of 9mm lately, prompted me to order a Lee Pro 20 and some six cavity molds. I'm going to try the “lotsa bullets production” method and see if I can get something out of it. 

Really nice two cavity Lee you're holding there.  I have one in 44, and a few NOE molds around here somewhere. 

 Good Luck,
       Ron</quote>

I'm seriously thinking about getting a pro 20. Been mulling it over for some time. The other night when I was casting up these little buggers and ran the pot dry, I knew it was time! Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Pigslayer posted this 09 June 2013

JeffinNZ wrote: Much better. Still astounds me how Lee can make their products in the US for the prices they can. Great company.

Jeff, It astounds me too! I'm mean like, where can you buy anything for less than $20.00 anymore? Even breakfast? And to have that quality too! Mr. Lee is a creative & marketing genius. The only LEE product that I have ever had a problem with was the early auto-disc powder measure. It didn't like flake powder. Other than that, I have used LEE's products since 1972 and have always been satisfied.

Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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delmarskid1 posted this 09 June 2013

We were in Hartford most of the weekend for a wedding. I wish I'd of remembered that Lee was there. It would have been cool to stop by.

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3100Loren posted this 10 June 2013

I heartily agree with you”¦now if Lee would only offer some of the Ranch Dog designs...

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Pigslayer posted this 12 June 2013

3100Loren wrote: I heartily agree with you”¦now if Lee would only offer some of the Ranch Dog designs...

Never got the opportunity to get a Ranchdog mold. either I didn't have the funds at the time or I was preoccupied with other things. My bad luck! Maybe he'll make them again one day.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Paul Pollard posted this 13 June 2013

Pat the Pigslayer wrote:

They're dropping .361, +/- with Lyman #2. Didn't take long at all to get that mold broke in! Sprayed it with brake cleaner to clean the oil off, warmed it up & had at it! Was casting perfect little gems in no time. Found that due to the smaller mold blocks I don't see as much chance for frosty bullets. Although I use a PID controller I still have to leave my mold blocks open for about 10 - 15 seconds between casts to avoid frosting with the older larger blocks. With these new slimmer mold blocks I don't seem to need to do that.

Hey Pat,

If your alloy #2 is the real deal at 90-5-5, I have found that it is finicky about mould temperature. With an LBT aluminum mould, pot temp at 660F, the best I can do is one cast per minute. Faster casting gives a frosted area at the mould handle area. This frosted area also does not fill out, giving a wasp-waist bullet. I kept turning the pot temp down, clear to 580 in 10 degree steps.

My alloy has a melt temperature of 550F. This stuff seems to fill okay, but I've turned the pot temp to 600 and it still is difficult. Maybe those printer people had the right idea. Linotype, monotype and even wheel weights all tolerate higher temperatures and faster casting without concave areas on the bullet. Maybe it was designed for iron moulds? I've considered quenching the mould in a bucket of water between casts.:P

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Pigslayer posted this 13 June 2013

Paul Pollard wrote: Pat the Pigslayer wrote:

They're dropping .361, +/- with Lyman #2. Didn't take long at all to get that mold broke in! Sprayed it with brake cleaner to clean the oil off, warmed it up & had at it! Was casting perfect little gems in no time. Found that due to the smaller mold blocks I don't see as much chance for frosty bullets. Although I use a PID controller I still have to leave my mold blocks open for about 10 - 15 seconds between casts to avoid frosting with the older larger blocks. With these new slimmer mold blocks I don't seem to need to do that.

Hey Pat,

If your alloy #2 is the real deal at 90-5-5, I have found that it is finicky about mould temperature. With an LBT aluminum mould, pot temp at 660F, the best I can do is one cast per minute. Faster casting gives a frosted area at the mould handle area. This frosted area also does not fill out, giving a wasp-waist bullet. I kept turning the pot temp down, clear to 580 in 10 degree steps.

My alloy has a melt temperature of 550F. This stuff seems to fill okay, but I've turned the pot temp to 600 and it still is difficult. Maybe those printer people had the right idea. Linotype, monotype and even wheel weights all tolerate higher temperatures and faster casting without concave areas on the bullet. Maybe it was designed for iron moulds? I've considered quenching the mould in a bucket of water between casts.:P

Paul, Yep, my Lyman #2 is the real deal. I make it from pure soft lead, 70/30 lead/antimony alloy from rotometals & pure tin from rotometals. You may want to check the heat in your pot with a thermometer. I think that rotometals has them. A bi-metal thermostat ( if that's what you have) can swing up to +/- 30 degrees F. That's a lot. I use a PID controller which keeps my temps within about 2 degrees. I'm running my PID at 335 degrees Celsius or 635 degrees Fahrenheit. When using the larger 2 cavity molds I leave my mold open to the air for about 10 to 15 seconds between casts and get nice shiny bullets. With the older Lyman single cavity AND the new & smaller LEE mold I may leave the mold open for maybe 5 seconds or simply close it immediately and cast again. A PID controller is the way to go in my book and Uncle Russ on this site sells them. At the very least get yourself a thermometer. Hope this helps, Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Uncle Russ posted this 14 June 2013

Kind of a fun note. I was having problems with a Lee 20# pot. Dropped them a line on a Thursday and had the answer back the next day with some question from Lee. Answered those, shot the e-mail back and lo and behold I got an answer back on Saturday. Being half a wise acre I thanked them for their quick service and remarked that the writer deserved a raise in pay for their efforts and getting back to me on the weekend. So thinking I ask for rest of his name other than Allan. He answered back questioning me if that was a compliment or not and then the rest of the answer could have knocked me over with a feather. He signed his full name---Allan Lee.

Hows that for service? Yes we got the pot working again. Leaky spout no more! :thumbsup:

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Pigslayer posted this 14 June 2013

Uncle Russ wrote: Kind of a fun note. I was having problems with a Lee 20# pot. Dropped them a line on a Thursday and had the answer back the next day with some question from Lee. Answered those, shot the e-mail back and lo and behold I got an answer back on Saturday. Being half a wise acre I thanked them for their quick service and remarked that the writer deserved a raise in pay for their efforts and getting back to me on the weekend. So thinking I ask for rest of his name other than Allan. He answered back questioning me if that was a compliment or not and then the rest of the answer could have knocked me over with a feather. He signed his full name---Allan Lee.

Hows that for service? Yes we got the pot working again. Leaky spout no more! :thumbsup:

 Allan Lee huh? Can't beat that! And on a weekend to boot. The more I deal with LEE, the more I respect & like them!

Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Rich22 posted this 14 June 2013

Lets see if a foreign concern will offer service like that!! Rich22

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Pigslayer posted this 19 July 2013

Not good news. All though first ecstatic with the new mold changes, I am now more that apprehensive. Although I very much liked the idea of LEE using an Allen screw instead of a roll pin for mounting the mold blocks to the handles, I have found it to be a very weak point. The thickness of the AL (wall thickness) between the handle mounting screw & the outside of the mold block is very thin . . . To the point of the screw in my mold breaking loose after casting about 400 bullets! I will contact them concerning this but will not suffer the time nor expense to send it back. I love the little 125 grainer that it was casting and it IS a very good shooter. I will simply draw up a clone on Mountain Molds program & have them make one for me. Can't win them all I guess. Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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afish4570 posted this 20 July 2013

I too think Lee is missing the boat on not marketing the Ranch Dog designs.  Their business is booming so now it probably isn't concerned. Wish Ranch Dog would open up his shop again. afish4570

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Wayne S posted this 20 July 2013

3100Loren wrote: I heartily agree with you”¦now if Lee would only offer some of the Ranch Dog designs...OR, :idea1: start offering their rifle designs in their 6 cavity molds

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Pigslayer posted this 20 July 2013

After the disheartening fall & demise of my NEW LEE 358-125-RF mold I decided to order a new custom mold of very similar design. I ordered from Tom@accuratemolds a 36-125L in the 2 cavity configuration. This particular mold is shown as bevel base but am having Tom cut it in a flat base. I have dealt with Accurate before and have found his molds to be of the finest quality. Attached is a photo of the mold half that I was talking about. Please note the enlarged screw hole after only 400 rds cast. The Allen screw literally fell out. Also notice how little metal there is between the screw hole & the outside of the mold. I'm not hard on my equipment & use only a 3/4” dowel to rap on the hinge pin to free my bullets. This is not acceptable and LEE precision, with all their experience should have seen this shortcoming. Shame on you Mr. LEE! You will note the bulge in the side of the mold half which was, although less pronounced, there from the start. I did have some apprehension about that but I decided to give it a go anyway. Don't get me wrong . . . I loved the bullet that the mold was dropping but . . . Here we are! In the future much pause will be shown prior to purchasing anymore LEE molds. I say that with regret as I have always valued their molds for quality & economy. Sad . . .

Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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mckg posted this 20 July 2013

Pigslayer wrote: LEE precision, with all their experience should have seen this shortcoming. This is my concern with LEE: nice technical ideas but no practice. For example, their molds are tested with Lyman Nr2 alloy or similar, when so many of us use range lead or wheelweights. Half of the molds I bought made me learn the difference the hard way.

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Pigslayer posted this 21 July 2013

mckg wrote: Pigslayer wrote: LEE precision, with all their experience should have seen this shortcoming. This is my concern with LEE: nice technical ideas but no practice. For example, their molds are tested with Lyman Nr2 alloy or similar, when so many of us use range lead or wheelweights. Half of the molds I bought made me learn the difference the hard way.

With humility accepted on my part, I must agree in that half of the time I have been very satisfied with the LEE molds that I have bought . . . The other half, I was not. I have bought many good products from LEE and will continue to buy from them. But . . . I doubt that I will buy anymore molds. Better I save my money, take accurate measurements & buy custom made molds. Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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pat i. posted this 21 July 2013

Their 6 cavity moulds are pretty good. I've been waiting for that same bullet in a 6 cavity for 3 months. Hope they get to making them before Christmas. Up to now I've been using a 100 gr Ranch Dog .380 bullet in my S&W 640 but would prefer something heavier. Although I have to say that 100 gr bullet with 2.2 grs of Bullseye is a fairly accurate mild kicking .38 combo in that little lightweight revolver

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Pigslayer posted this 21 July 2013

After searching around my shop floor I found what I thought was going to be an Allen screw that came out of my mold half. This what I found. The hole in the mold half is not tapped at all. This facsimile of a screw is what is used. As it is torqued in with a METRIC ( as in not SAE ) hex wrench it also bulges the sides of the mold half. Hmmmmmmmmmm. would like to know the country of origin of that screw. Poor engineering Mr. LEE. All that nice work in machining the mold cavity and installing the new style alignment pins and skimp on AL thickness & mounting screws. Go figure.

Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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PETE posted this 21 July 2013

Pigslayer,

I've never bought anything from LEE but from the comments about them on here I'm wondering if you've contacted them about this ? I'd bet they'd do their best to make things right.

Pete

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John Alexander posted this 21 July 2013

Pat,

You mentioned that you cleaned off the new Lee Mold with brake cleaner. Please let me know what brand. I recently tried brake cleaner and it didn't remove whatever was keeping the mold from casting right. I suppose all brake cleaners aren't created equal. I will try some of your brand before giving up.

Thanks.

John

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Pigslayer posted this 21 July 2013

John Alexander wrote: Pat,

You mentioned that you cleaned off the new Lee Mold with brake cleaner. Please let me know what brand. I recently tried brake cleaner and it didn't remove whatever was keeping the mold from casting right. I suppose all brake cleaners aren't created equal. I will try some of your brand before giving up.

Thanks.

John

John, Just generic brake cleaner from Advance Auto. Was up & casting nice bullets in no time.

Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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onondaga posted this 22 July 2013

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=6171>Pigslayer

Pat, now that I see the pictures related to your unhappiness with the mold block metal  distorting around the pin, I have an additional comment to the PM reply I sent.

Pat, that wouldn't have happened to me. I know everybody casts differently and the area does look like it could be better if the area was beefed up.

This would not have happened to me because I don't pound anything when I cast. I check the molds and get sure that bullets will release well before I cast. I time my opening of the sprue cutter so I can open it with a gloved hand and dump bullets. I rarely have to tap bullets out,  but if I have to, I now only use a small wood baton to the handle pivot bolt with very light tapping and vibrate them out.

If you have had to smack open the the sprue cutter and smack out bullets, it is easy to see that the problem you have would happen with the design as shown.

The lower picture in post #28  shows a lot of dings to the mold block suggesting  you may have clobbered the snot out of the mold.

Gary

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apbluebass posted this 22 July 2013

I thought quenching a mold warped it?

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tturner53 posted this 22 July 2013

It does look like the design needs work as far as that pin goes. If it was me I'd figure out a way to put it back together, maybe stake the pin or some kind of adhesive. Not ideal but maybe get the mold back in business. I agree that little 125 RF is a great bullet. I've been 'clobbering the snot' out of my molds for 20 years, including many Lee molds. So far so good.

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Pigslayer posted this 22 July 2013

onondaga wrote: http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=6171>Pigslayer

Pat, now that I see the pictures related to your unhappiness with the mold block metal  distorting around the pin, I have an additional comment to the PM reply I sent.

Pat, that wouldn't have happened to me. I know everybody casts differently and the area does look like it could be better if the area was beefed up.

This would not have happened to me because I don't pound anything when I cast. I check the molds and get sure that bullets will release well before I cast. I time my opening of the sprue cutter so I can open it with a gloved hand and dump bullets. I rarely have to tap bullets out,  but if I have to, I now only use a small wood baton to the handle pivot bolt with very light tapping and vibrate them out.

If you have had to smack open the the sprue cutter and smack out bullets, it is easy to see that the problem you have would happen with the design as shown.

The lower picture in post #28  shows a lot of dings to the mold block suggesting  you may have clobbered the snot out of the mold.

Gary

Actually I find your comment more than presumptuous having to do with “clobbering” the mold. Contempt prior to investigation so to speak. I don't clobber the snot out of my molds. I have many LEE molds along with many others that I have never had a problem with. Gary, I find you a knowledgable man but find you NEITHER CLAIRVOYANT nor a God like creature of infinite knowledge . I use only a 3/4” dowel to TAP on the hinge pins of my molds verses the MALLET that you show on your casting bench! Since . . . This is the first mold out of all the molds that I own that has had this issue, do you suppose that it could be a manufacturing/engineering issue? You seem to be quick to throw stones and I suggest that you show pause prior to doing that with me. For to engage in a battle of wit with me would be your undoing. In the past I have remained silent when seeing you Pre-judge others as it was not my fight. Please . . . In the future . . . Choose your words carefully . . . for I am (verbally) well armed. It seems that you are obsessed in defending Mr. LEE & his products . . . To the point of it . . . well . . . being . . . An OBSESSION! Do you own stock in LEE Precision? No matter. I ask that you, in the future, come down from your self made pedestal where you view the world from your perceived Olympian perspective, set aside your condescension and GET IT THROUGH YOUR HEAD that LEE products are far from the pinnacle of engineering!!! There really are better products out there if you would step outside that box that you live in! The bottom line is that LEE screwed up. Out of all the molds I have I.e. NEI, LBT, Lyman, Accurate & yes, the older LEE molds, I have never hade a mold that fell apart AND is not designed to be serviceable. Is that clear? Crystal clear? Do you get it now? Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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onondaga posted this 22 July 2013

Pat, you are clear there.

The mallet you see in my pictures is a leather mallet that I don't  pound casting stuff  with. It has good mass for pushing sprue plates if my hand is not gloved and I also have a non- Lee buckshot mold that does require some pounding directly on the sprues to get the clusters of shot and sprues free as the mold has no cutter plate. It is usually not even on that portable bench, You pre-judged that.

I also use the mallet flint knapping to really pound antler tools and drive off large flakes of flint, that is why the mallet is so beat up.

The best thing you can do to get good ideas is to not hold back farts Pat, they will go up your spine and into your brain and that is where really poopie ideas come from. Tangling with me isn't a real good idea either. Have you been holding back?

Think about how you got those dings on the mold block and what forces were used to distort that metal. I wouldn't have done that with the low amount of casting you claim to have done with that mold. It should have held up better and the design should be improved, The mold did not hold up to your use and may well not hold up to the use of others also,  but the mold did not commit suicide and would have worked fine for me.

I have just gotten a job with Lee, starting likely this fall, as a technical writer when many manuals are scheduled to be rewritten. Lee is in the process of re-engineering a major product that I have defended for years on another forum.

Gary

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LWesthoff posted this 23 July 2013

I've been kind of wondering what kind of groups and scores Mr. Onandaga shoots with those super smooth barrels and perfectly cast bullets etc. he talks about - not the “wallet groups", but the consistant average he gets. Too bad he doesn't shoot in some of the CBA sanctioned competitions so we could actually SEE how he does.... but if you don't belong to the CBA all that stuff remains kind of a secret, doesn't it!

Wes

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onondaga posted this 23 July 2013

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=804>LWesthoff

You can expect my 25 yard offhand Muzzle Loader groups in the current Postal match with Crow targets to be ho-hum at my best. If you need my ho-hum excuses, I have pretty nasty arthritis and stroke damage that effects my offhand shooting and walking significantly. But the next postal is bench, I am a decent bench shooter and hope to place in that match.

My love of shooting and encouragement from the guy running this match, Pat Iffland,  has stirred me to compete again after many years out of the game.

Gary

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pat i. posted this 23 July 2013

No dog in this fight, for a change, but I don't see all the damage from the supposed beating up on the mould that keeps getting mentioned. I see some lube stains on it but not much indication of abuse. What am I missing?

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John Alexander posted this 23 July 2013

Ok Guys, let's tone it down. I don't want to delete this thread because it has some interesting stuff but we all need to look at what we write before sending it.

After typing and before sending a post ask yourself “If someone said this to me would I take offense” and then if the answer is yes -- don't send it.

I value this forum and the knowledge it brings but there is no reason we can't keep it civil.

John

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CB posted this 23 July 2013

OMG John, don't delete this post, this is better than General Hospital ! ;)

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Pigslayer posted this 23 July 2013

Dan Willems wrote: OMG John, don't delete this post, this is better than General Hospital ! ;)

And all because a LEE mold fell apart! LOL! What a hoot! LOL I posted my dissatisfaction with this particular product as a caution to others concerning the new style LEE mold blocks. This problem may never crop up with anyone else and may be indigenous to my mold only. As with any manufacturer, they have their share of culls. I'm sure that LEE Precision has eyes on shooting forums and most certainly on this one & this particular thread. Even though LEE and it's representatives may regret this type of shortcoming/public display . . . It's part of the learning curve and in the end a catalyst for making a better product. I don't understand why LEE changed the size/construction of their mold blocks as they worked well & I've never had an issue with the many that I have. I will speculate that the new mold block is made of less AL & also it appears to be a manufactured extrusion which requires no machining/milling for the handle slots. A lighter mold (less material) & phasing out certain milling operations saves money. Bottom line. But, as shown in my previous pics . . . Here we are. Again, this thread was never started/intended to create controversy or to wreak havoc. It has been, in essence, to share my experience with a product from beginning to end. Never did I expect to be insulted or falsely accused because of a simple matter like this. But after giving thought & making an overall assessment of certain reactions to my posts . . . I'm grinning from ear to ear cause it's just small stuff . . . And with life in general . . . It's all small stuff!

:dude::lovecast:

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Duane Mellenbruch posted this 23 July 2013

I thought it was an excellant thread and had good clear photos and pretty factual.  Thank you for presenting the information to the forum.  Duane

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Pigslayer posted this 23 July 2013

Thank you Duane.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Chargar posted this 23 July 2013

When you make stuff to sell super cheap, a couple of penny's saved in the making will show up on the bottom line.

Many times, cheap is not a good dollar value. This is one of the first lessons we learn in life, or at least it should be.

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Pigslayer posted this 23 July 2013

Chargar wrote: When you make stuff to sell super cheap, a couple of penny's saved in the making will show up on the bottom line.

Many times, cheap is not a good dollar value. This is one of the first lessons we learn in life, or at least it should be.

Chargar, The lesson that you describe is being played out more and more in these times . . . sadly. I, as I have mentioned, have a number of LEE products that have served me very well over many years but, I have had some that have turned out to be junk! Such as one of the first auto-disk powder measures. That thing throws powder everywhere! I have found that shopping at LEE is sort of like buying tools at Harbor freight. It's a gamble. For the most part the odds have been in my favor but, as in the case of my new mold or the earlier auto-disk powder measure, I lost. My Lyman molds are ones that you could throw against a brick wall & they would still cast good bullets! I guess that my biggest beef was not just that my mold fell apart, but that I waited 2 1/2 months for it! It cast a beautiful & accurate bullet but all that is nil if it's not useable. Although an amateur at the game of bullet design, I've learned enough to get pretty fair at it. I've designed & had made a number of molds on the Mountain Molds site. All have been excellent shooters. After my new mold went south I did a lot of searching & found what appears to be close to a clone of the LEE 358-125-RF. The only change that I specified is that I wanted a flat base instead of the bevel. It is Accurate Molds #36-125L. Check it out. I bought it in the 2-cavity AL configuration and the cost was $96.00 + $5.00 shipping. I use a set of slightly modified Large Lyman handles for my custom molds. One set of handles for all of them. It takes only a few minutes to change out a mold & saves a lot of space in my storage box. But, Chargar, you are absolutely correct in that you get what you pay for . . . well, most of the time. Thanks for your post.

Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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cbshtr posted this 23 July 2013

For what its worth I just got 2 of the C312160 molds. I looked at them today after reading your post. On one of the them the bulge from the handle screw is very obvious on one half of the mold but not as much on the other. On the other mold both are faintly noticeable. Haven't tried either one but polished the bad one up today. Hopefully, will try casting in the next few days to see how they perform.

Robert Homan

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Pigslayer posted this 24 July 2013

cbshtr wrote: For what its worth I just got 2 of the C312160 molds. I looked at them today after reading your post. On one of the them the bulge from the handle screw is very obvious on one half of the mold but not as much on the other. On the other mold both are faintly noticeable. Haven't tried either one but polished the bad one up today. Hopefully, will try casting in the next few days to see how they perform. Same as mine. Very thin metal between the screw hole & the outside of the mold. Handle with kid gloves. There just isn't enough metal on the extrusion being used. If they had another 1/8” on each side I probably wouldn't have had an issue. Looks as if the setup for the drilling operation was off center. Poor QC.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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delmarskid1 posted this 24 July 2013

I received the Lee .445 double round ball mold. I haven't checked to see if the same situation exists. The bullets fall right out. Who shoots 400 round balls at a crack. It should fill the bill for me for quite a while. Thanks for the heads up Mr. P. I'll be sure to baby this until I figure out how to repair or correct it. I really like the alignment pins on the new molds. If they had up dated the old pattern with the new pins and locators I'd have been happy to pay a little more for the better mold.

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Pigslayer posted this 24 July 2013

delmarskid1 wrote: I received the Lee .445 double round ball mold. I haven't checked to see if the same situation exists. The bullets fall right out. Who shoots 400 round balls at a crack. It should fill the bill for me for quite a while. Thanks for the heads up Mr. P. I'll be sure to baby this until I figure out how to repair or correct it. I really like the alignment pins on the new molds. If they had up dated the old pattern with the new pins and locators I'd have been happy to pay a little more for the better mold. I agree totally. If they had of just stuck with using the old mold blocks as you mention, they would have been perfect. I would have paid a few more dollars to beef up the mold.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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John Alexander posted this 24 July 2013

Pat wrote:

” Chargar, you are absolutely correct in that you get what you pay for . . . well, most of the time."

Pat,

I'm glad you added the “well most of the time.” I have been stung pretty badly with high dollar items as well as sometimes losing in the Harbor Freight crap shoot. Just look at the Consumer Reports reports on reliability of cars. Some of the most expensive are lemons even the ones named after big cats or that advertise “German engineering.” And some at the low price end seem to be bulletproof.

John

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Pigslayer posted this 24 July 2013

Well . . . News flash. Although this is my home base as far as a shooters forum, I do check others from time to time. I was just over at castboolits and found numerous issues with LEE's new mold blocks I.e. pins loosening & mold blocks falling off as with mine, the new alignment pins sliding back & forth in the boring and alignment pins sticking & not allowing the mold to open. C'mon LEE, back to basics! Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Pigslayer posted this 24 July 2013

Just called LEE customer service and the old style mold blocks are no longer available. They agree to repair or replace defective molds but the customer will be responsible for shipping charges in sending the mold back to them. I explained to them that it was not really worth my time & money to go that route unless they could supply the old style mold blocks. That being said I informed him that even though I have been a LEE customer for years that from here on in I will have my molds custom made. I informed him that others were having the same issues & that he/they should monitor the various shooting forums. With that I said good-bye.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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mckg posted this 25 July 2013

It sounds like they're getting a bit delusional at LEE, or that they're trying to get out of the mold business... I'm kicking myself for delaying the purchase of a couple of these.... one of them being Ed's design.

Hopefully, the whole LEE family is just on some long vacations right now and they will sort this out when they return.

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MaryB posted this 25 July 2013

I have those same bulges on my brand new Lee Molds, the 452-200 I have to align the block halves by hand a lot to get it to close, they hang so far they won't line back up. My new 312-160TL doesn't show the bulges and has the hex pin. It lines back up a lot better when closing too.

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Pigslayer posted this 25 July 2013

MaryB wrote: I have those same bulges on my brand new Lee Molds, the 452-200 I have to align the block halves by hand a lot to get it to close, they hang so far they won't line back up. My new 312-160TL doesn't show the bulges and has the hex pin. It lines back up a lot better when closing too.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Duane Mellenbruch posted this 25 July 2013

I have several of the “old style” Lee two cavity molds and they have served me well.  I do not have one of the new style molds to compare with but do wonder about a few things.

The photos suggest that the new molds seem to have the handles attached so that the mold blocks extend further past the handle ends.   I am wondering if the support of the closed handles is inadequate. 

Are the blocks fitted to the handles or are they rather loose and allowing the blocks to tilt and rattle like a nearly worn out old set.  I have often thought of making a block and stake tool to slightly displace the mold blocks to “tighten” up the fit of the blocks to the handles and make aligning and closing the mold easier.  I have refrained because I have not been successful in fixing something that is not broke.

From the photos, it appears that the pin used to secure the blocks to the handles is a larger diameter than the old style.  Perhaps if Lee had kept the full dimension on the mold blocks, and used the same style pin as originally used, this would not be happening? 

Any real life observations on this?  Thanks in advance.  Duane

 

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99 Strajght posted this 25 July 2013

I have two of the new Lee blocks so I tried to measure as close as I can. The old blocks pin is about .130 in diameter. The new blocks pin is about .157. Both of the holes are about .110 to the center from the edge. That leaves .045 to hold the old block and .032 for the new block to the edge. I have only cast about 200 times in both blocks so far and nothing but good bullets. Bullets drop from the mold almost without a hit. I use a small rubber hammer that I got from Harbor Fright. No pin problem of any kind. Without Lee I would have only about a forth of the molds I have now. No fun in that.  

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Chargar posted this 25 July 2013

John Alexander wrote: Pat wrote:

” Chargar, you are absolutely correct in that you get what you pay for . . . well, most of the time."

Pat,

I'm glad you added the “well most of the time.” I have been stung pretty badly with high dollar items as well as sometimes losing in the Harbor Freight crap shoot. Just look at the Consumer Reports reports on reliability of cars. Some of the most expensive are lemons even the ones named after big cats or that advertise “German engineering.” And some at the low price end seem to be bulletproof.

John

I have never owned any kind of luxury car in my life, nor do I intend to so do. I have no love affair with vehicles so I muddle along with a good Ford F150 pickup. I have had to work for every dime I have ever had and so don't throw money away. This is the reason I seldom buy Lee products. They just have no proven to give me good value for my hard earned dollar.

I started reloading in 1958 and still use most of the original equipment. My bench have three old black Pacific C presses (two pre-war and one post-war), a 60's vintage RCBS A2 and a Redding turret. The powder measures are my original Hollywood and a pair of Lyman 55s I picked up along the way.

I have less than $100.00 invested in all three old Pacific presses. I did have to shell out $200 for the A2 and about $150 for the Redding.

I hold the belief that a fellow should be able to buy reloading equipment and have it work right as it comes out of the box. It should continue to do so for his natural life.

There is no luxury in my life of any kind, but I will pay for quality things that last.

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Pigslayer posted this 25 July 2013

Chargar wrote: John Alexander wrote: Pat wrote:

” Chargar, you are absolutely correct in that you get what you pay for . . . well, most of the time."

Pat,

I'm glad you added the “well most of the time.” I have been stung pretty badly with high dollar items as well as sometimes losing in the Harbor Freight crap shoot. Just look at the Consumer Reports reports on reliability of cars. Some of the most expensive are lemons even the ones named after big cats or that advertise “German engineering.” And some at the low price end seem to be bulletproof.

John

I have never owned any kind of luxury car in my life, nor do I intend to so do. I have no love affair with vehicles so I muddle along with a good Ford F150 pickup. I have had to work for every dime I have ever had and so don't throw money away. This is the reason I seldom buy Lee products. They just have no proven to give me good value for my hard earned dollar.

I started reloading in 1958 and still use most of the original equipment. My bench have three old black Pacific C presses (two pre-war and one post-war), a 60's vintage RCBS A2 and a Redding turret. The powder measures are my original Hollywood and a pair of Lyman 55s I picked up along the way.

I have less than $100.00 invested in all three old Pacific presses. I did have to shell out $200 for the A2 and about $150 for the Redding.

I hold the belief that a fellow should be able to buy reloading equipment and have it work right as it comes out of the box. It should continue to do so for his natural life.

There is no luxury in my life of any kind, but I will pay for quality things that last. Well said!

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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cbshtr posted this 26 July 2013

My new C312-160TL looks like maryb's. I did get a chance to cast with it today. After over 200 bullets, the molds look the same as when I started. I have a little more polishing and deburring to do as the bullets were hanging up in the one half. A couple lite taps on the handles would drop them. I thought I had them degreased well enough but it did take me awhile to get the remaining grease out and the temperature to stabilize. It appears they may be a harder aluminum than the old style since I didn't tear up the top of the blocks like I usually do though I lubed them them same. Overall, I'm happy with them, for now. Less than 1/1000” out of round and an almost invisable seam line. Can't beat it for less than $20 as long as it proves to be a durable mold with Pigslayer's circumstance being the exception instead of the rule.

Robert Homan

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Pigslayer posted this 26 July 2013

cbshtr wrote: My new C312-160TL looks like maryb's. I did get a chance to cast with it today. After over 200 bullets, the molds look the same as when I started. I have a little more polishing and deburring to do as the bullets were hanging up in the one half. A couple lite taps on the handles would drop them. I thought I had them degreased well enough but it did take me awhile to get the remaining grease out and the temperature to stabilize. It appears they may be a harder aluminum than the old style since I didn't tear up the top of the blocks like I usually do though I lubed them them same. Overall, I'm happy with them, for now. Less than 1/1000” out of round and an almost invisable seam line. Can't beat it for less than $20 as long as it proves to be a durable mold with Pigslayer's circumstance being the exception instead of the rule.

 Glad your mold is working out. I cast about 400 really nice bullets before the right half of the mold hit the floor. Keep an eye on the pins that mount the mold to the handles. Never had much of an issue with the bullets dropping out. Just a couple of raps on the hinge pin did it. But mine had a lot of slop in it from the beginning. I just feel that LEE should have done more extensive testing prior to marketing.
 As far as that bulge in the side of the mold block goes . . . A heavier/thicker mold block would have alleviated that and also some high temp Loctite would be the ticket. 
 Please folks, don't get me wrong. I'm not out to boycott LEE Precision and will buy from them again. I'm just not going to buy any more of their molds until they get this situation rectified.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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MaryB posted this 26 July 2013

Both my new style Lee molds drop easy, slight rap on the handle hinge is all it takes. I thought about sticking the block in a vise to tighten it up on the handle so I don't have to reach over with my right hand to line the blocks up. Slows me down and ruins my rhythm.

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cbshtr posted this 26 July 2013

I do agree they have a design flaw. Doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out that the block pins should not be distorting the blocks. A little wider block and possibly a better screw would eliminate what we are experiencing.

Robert Homan

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Michael K posted this 27 July 2013

I finally read through the rest of this topic starting after Pat's initial report on the problem that cropped up. I have a few of Lee's older moulds, some push through sizers, and s shell holder set. I once had an Auto Prime that has since replaced with a RCBS unit. How much we spend on is a personal choice after weighing out the pros and cons.

Word of mouth advertising for any company can make or break the product and/or the company and it is much less expensive to keep existing customers happy and loyal than try to attract and get new ones. My opinion on Lee products is guarded, some things I will buy, but if I am in doubt, I will opt for known standards of dependability, durability and customer service.

Mr. Lee, Your customers are trying to do you favor here. Are you listening?

There is difference between products that provide good value for the money and products that are cheap. Hopefully Lee Precision will be wise enough heed the concerns aired here before too much damage is inflicted on their reputation.

Michael.

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Pigslayer posted this 27 July 2013

Duane Mellenbruch wrote: I have several of the “old style” Lee two cavity molds and they have served me well.  I do not have one of the new style molds to compare with but do wonder about a few things.

The photos suggest that the new molds seem to have the handles attached so that the mold blocks extend further past the handle ends.   I am wondering if the support of the closed handles is inadequate. 

Are the blocks fitted to the handles or are they rather loose and allowing the blocks to tilt and rattle like a nearly worn out old set.  I have often thought of making a block and stake tool to slightly displace the mold blocks to “tighten” up the fit of the blocks to the handles and make aligning and closing the mold easier.  I have refrained because I have not been successful in fixing something that is

From the photos, it appears that the pin used to secure the blocks to the handles is a larger diameter than the old style.  Perhaps if Lee had kept the full dimension on the mold blocks, and used the same style pin as originally used, this would not be happening? 

Any real life observations on this?  Thanks in advance.  Duane

 

In response I have to say that the mold halves in the new configuration rattle around like two BB's in a boxcar. There have been many complaints both here and on other shooting forums. Hopefully. . . LEE is paying attention.

Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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