Opinion Solicitation regarding Mountain Molds

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  • Last Post 01 September 2013
LBD posted this 20 August 2013

I've got an idea for a 220 grain, gas checked, .35 caliber bullet that I can use in all of my .35 caliber guns from the .357 Blackhawk to the .350RM & 35W.

So... can I expect a quality, long lasting aluminum mold from Mountain Molds?  This particular vendor is the only one I'm aware of that utilizes an online bullet design application and since I own no CAD tool, at least his business plan is perfect for my current needs.  The only draw back I've noticed so far is the vendor's restriction on ogive length; therefore, high BC, strictly rifle bullets can't be ordered.

Thanks, LBD

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Pigslayer posted this 20 August 2013

LBD wrote: I've got an idea for a 220 grain, gas checked, .35 caliber bullet that I can use in all of my .35 caliber guns from the .357 Blackhawk to the .350RM & 35W.

So... can I expect a quality, long lasting aluminum mold from Mountain Molds?  This particular vendor is the only one I'm aware of that utilizes an online bullet design application and since I own no CAD tool, at least his business plan is perfect for my current needs.  The only draw back I've noticed so far is the vendor's restriction on ogive length; therefore, high BC, strictly rifle bullets can't be ordered.

Thanks, LBD

I have several molds from Mountain molds and love them. They are as good as any custom mold out there. The bullet design program is one thAt you have to play with & get acclimated to. If you are unsure of the design needed, ask around this forum. I've designed a couple of bullets with their program with excellent results. Just make sure of your measurements. I just know I'll do business with them again.

Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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LBD posted this 20 August 2013

Thanks Pat...

Yeah, I've been studying my chamber impressions and the cylinder of my Blackhawk in my spare time for the last few days.  I'm all set except for the finale... the gas check shank.

LBD

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RicinYakima posted this 20 August 2013

I have had 3 moulds made and they cast very good bullets and very close to the design pictures. However, I had all three made from brass, which I prefer to aluminum as the surface finish is better and they loose heat more slowly. The last is a factor in my old age as my rate of casting is slowing. HTH, Ric

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LBD posted this 20 August 2013

I'm gonna go with the XL Aluminum 3-cavity block but I forgot to ask...

Pat &/or Rick,

How close are your actual “As-Cast” diameters to the specified “As-Cast” diameter in the pull-down menu? I'm specifying “wheel weight” alloy.

Thanks again, LBD

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Chargar posted this 21 August 2013

I have two Mountain Molds and are well satisfied with them both.

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delmarskid1 posted this 21 August 2013

I have an aluminum mold from Mountain Molds and it casts to within a few tenths of a thousandth of my drawing.

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LBD posted this 21 August 2013

delmarskid1 wrote: I have an aluminum mold from Mountain Molds and it casts to within a few tenths of a thousandth of my drawing. Plus or minus, or just plus?

LBD

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RicinYakima posted this 21 August 2013

MM's wheelweights are late model composition, about 3.2% antimony and 0.3% tin. My mix of WW's from the last 20 years cast about 0.001+” larger than what his model states. Unless you plan on shooting them “as cast", I would recommend the largest throat size you would need plus 0.001". It is always easy to make them smaller, hard to make them bigger!

One is a 45 ACP mould that I asked for .452” that casts mostly at .453", so the trip through the lube/sizer is for NRA alox lube. Sides a very even with the centerline.

 HTH, Ric

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Pigslayer posted this 21 August 2013

As far as “as cast diameter” . . . For instance with my .444 Marlin Handi-rifle the groove diameter is .431. I ordered a as cast diameter of .433 which I felt that I would size to. My bullets are dropping at .4345 leaving plenty of room to size. I hope this gives an indication of how to order .

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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LBD posted this 21 August 2013

Pigslayer wrote: I ordered a as cast diameter of .433 which I felt that I would size to. My bullets are dropping at .4345 leaving plenty of room to size. I hope this gives an indication of how to order . Thanks Pat, that's precisely what I need to know.  Is it safe to assume you're referring to clip-on wheel weight alloy?

LBD

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Pigslayer posted this 22 August 2013

LBD wrote: Pigslayer wrote: I ordered a as cast diameter of .433 which I felt that I would size to. My bullets are dropping at .4345 leaving plenty of room to size. I hope this gives an indication of how to order . Thanks Pat, that's precisely what I need to know.  Is it safe to assume you're referring to clip-on wheel weight alloy?

LBD Lyman #2

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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highstandard40 posted this 22 August 2013

I have two Mountain molds, a 255 gr 35 caliber and a 165 gr 7MM. Both drop bullets about .0015” over the size I requested with the alloy I specified.

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LBD posted this 22 August 2013

highstandard40 wrote: I have two Mountain molds, a 255 gr 35 caliber and a 165 gr 7MM. Both drop bullets about .0015” over the size I requested with the alloy I specified. Do you remember the alloy you specified?

LBD

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highstandard40 posted this 22 August 2013

LBD wrote: highstandard40 wrote: I have two Mountain molds, a 255 gr 35 caliber and a 165 gr 7MM. Both drop bullets about .0015” over the size I requested with the alloy I specified. Do you remember the alloy you specified?

LBD

COWW + 2% Tin. If you look on his mold design page, he states that finished molds can be expected to drop bullets at requested size or as much as .002” larger.....but not smaller than specified.

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LBD posted this 22 August 2013

Did you guys go with the stud and lock nut form of sprue plate pivot or the more conventional screw and set screw configuration? I'm leaning toward the stud and lock nut but wondering if the vendor uses a common size and thread just in case of wear and/or loss.

LBD

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LBD posted this 22 August 2013

One other quick question:

Are his overall length tolerances about the same as his diameter tolerances? My design is a shoe-horn type fit in the .357 Blackhawk and I'm wondering if I should back down the nose length a hair.

LBD

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LBD posted this 22 August 2013

highstandard40 wrote: LBD wrote: highstandard40 wrote: I have two Mountain molds, a 255 gr 35 caliber and a 165 gr 7MM. Both drop bullets about .0015” over the size I requested with the alloy I specified. Do you remember the alloy you specified?

LBD

COWW + 2% Tin. If you look on his mold design page, he states that finished molds can be expected to drop bullets at requested size or as much as .002” larger.....but not smaller than specified. I saw that.  I'm just wondering if I should reduce my initial diameter spec. from .361” to .360” because I want to shoot unsized in my 35 Whelen and .358 Win and don't have a .361” die.  My Lyman 360 die will size to .3605” with my alloys but it's already been polished out with a hand drill... fortunately, it still sizes 'em round.

What I really need are .359” and .361” push through dies so I don't need to worry about my mold casting too large.

LBD

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Pigslayer posted this 22 August 2013

LBD wrote: Did you guys go with the stud and lock nut form of sprue plate pivot or the more conventional screw and set screw configuration? I'm leaning toward the stud and lock nut but wondering if the vendor uses a common size and thread just in case of wear and/or loss.

LBD

I really like the stud & locknut better than the screw type. I think that MM is the only one that offers that. You really can't go wrong with these guys.

Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Pigslayer posted this 22 August 2013

LBD wrote: Did you guys go with the stud and lock nut form of sprue plate pivot or the more conventional screw and set screw configuration? I'm leaning toward the stud and lock nut but wondering if the vendor uses a common size and thread just in case of wear and/or loss.

LBD

I really like the stud & locknut better than the screw type. I think that MM is the only one that offers that. You really can't go wrong with these guys.

Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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RicinYakima posted this 22 August 2013

I also have the locknut on my brass moulds, and that is fine with it's low expansion rate compared to aluminum. FWIW, Ric

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