How do you store your molds?

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  • Last Post 26 March 2019
David Reiss posted this 08 May 2017

I have acquired many molds over the years, some of them, in fact quite a few without their original boxes. So how do you store your molds? In what, with or without preservative, with a bullet in the cavity, etc? The details. 

David Reiss - NRA Life Member & PSC Range Member Retired Police Firearms Instructor/Armorer
-Services: Wars Fought, Uprisings Quelled, Bars Emptied, Revolutions Started, Tigers Tamed, Assassinations Plotted, Women Seduced, Governments Run, Gun Appraisals, Lost Treasure Found.
- Also deal in: Land, Banjos, Nails, Firearms, Manure, Fly Swatters, Used Cars, Whisky, Racing Forms, Rare Antiquities, Lead, Used Keyboard Keys, Good Dogs, Pith Helmets & Zulu Headdresses. .

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parkergunz posted this 26 March 2019

I pour 2# of silica gel in the bottom of a plastic ammo can. Lay down a piece of blue shop towel, stack the moulds on top and close the lid.

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Bill2728 posted this 25 March 2019

Just last month, I made an inventory sheet, cleaned, oiled, wrapped and stored my molds in a 20mm ammo can with the exception of some Lee six cavity molds and I'm looking for a container for them.  I don't mind the degreasing before using, it is easier than trying to remove rust. The climate control in my basement is lacking.

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Squid Boy posted this 24 March 2019

I am new to this so I only have 16 molds. I store them in Tupperware containers, four to a container with the handles on them. The iron molds get a light coat of oil before going in and there is a packet of silica gel in each box. When it goes from winter freezing to warm and moist, it almost rains in my barn where my loading tools are. Almost everything is stored in airtight containers and Tupperware works good. Thanks, Squid

"Squid Pro Quo"

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David Reiss posted this 23 March 2019

Update:

I located clear plastic boxes on eBay that are very cheap. The only issue is one comes from China and it takes about 2-6 weeks to get them after you order, but the shipping is free. The other comes from here and the shipping is also free. Of the two sizes, one will hold 3-4 two cavity molds and the other will hold 2-3 molds on handles, any number of cavities. They cost $2.15 & $2.95, so they are inexpensive.I place the desiccant packets inside and they work extremely well.  

David Reiss - NRA Life Member & PSC Range Member Retired Police Firearms Instructor/Armorer
-Services: Wars Fought, Uprisings Quelled, Bars Emptied, Revolutions Started, Tigers Tamed, Assassinations Plotted, Women Seduced, Governments Run, Gun Appraisals, Lost Treasure Found.
- Also deal in: Land, Banjos, Nails, Firearms, Manure, Fly Swatters, Used Cars, Whisky, Racing Forms, Rare Antiquities, Lead, Used Keyboard Keys, Good Dogs, Pith Helmets & Zulu Headdresses. .

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BigMan54 posted this 23 March 2019

I've been planning for about a year or two to go down to the Bed, Bath & Beyond store to check out their little plastic boxes with rubber gasket and 4 latches. I steal one every so often from my Wife when she's not looking. I also plan to get some VPI (?) paper to wrap molds in so I won't have to spend so much on Brake Cleaner.

Just another thing to get around to.

Long time Caster/Reloader, Getting back into it after almost 10yrs. Life Member NRA 40+yrs, Life S.A.S.S. #375. Does this mean a description of me as a fumble-fingered knuckle-draggin' baboon. I also drool in my sleep. I firmly believe that true happiness is a warm gun. Did I mention how much I HATE auto-correct on this blasted tablet.

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JeffinNZ posted this 23 March 2019

In such a way that my wife can't see how many I have.

Cheers from New Zealand

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Qc Pistolero posted this 23 March 2019

Richard and I must be the only casters using WD40 or PB blaster for storage. I also wrap the mold with plastic cling wrap. Often the mold is still wet months later. Yes you do have to clean it. But as Richard said. Brake spray cleaner and an old toothbrush. It only takes a minute or so . 

I've also been using it and,like reported above,some brake cleaner used profusely will put you back in business in a very short while.I inspect each and every bullet and keep notes on % of good vs bad bullets.While I don't weigh each of them(do it randomly here and there)I must say that for years,I haven't detected any change.

It works for me and,glad to see for some others too.

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Hoppy posted this 05 November 2017

Here in Wisconsin, it can be humid much of the year, so I've gotta be careful about storing anything that might rust or corrode. For a while I coated my molds with RIG (rust inhibiting grease) before storing them in ammo cans, but I got tired of having to wash them in some solvent before using--and even then it seemed like it took a while in the casting session before some residual oil was eliminated and the molds started dropping good bullets. But these days I follow a simple three-step process: 1) wrap the mold in VPI paper or put it in a baggie with VPI crystals, 2) put a desiccant pack in the container, and 3) use a good ammo can (one with a good seal) or dry box for storage. I've never had a speck of rust once I started doing this, and to start a casting session all I have to do is unwrap the VPI paper (or brush the VPI crystals off) and stack alloy ingots in the lead pot and plug it in. VPI chemicals are (or at least were) available from Brownells, and good desiccant packs can be had inexpensively from Amazon.

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melchior posted this 05 November 2017

I have all my moulds mounted on handles (mostly LEE handles) and store them in Cabela's plastic ammo boxes and sprayed with RemOil.   They are sorted by caliber and stored in my basement in on the Olympic Peninsula.

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GP Idaho posted this 04 November 2017

One thing I have to love about arid SW Idaho. My moulds , iron and aluminum sit on a shelf above my loading deck just as they are after casting with no further ado. I have several Redding-Saeco iron moulds and have never had one rust. Gp

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Wiresguy posted this 04 November 2017

 I’m down to a couple dozen molds, aluminum or brass.

I’ve used .50 cal ammo cans for mold storage.

Recently I purchased some “Large Watertight Boxes” made by the Outdoor Products company.

These are made from polycarbonate and are 3.5 x 6.8 x 8 inches in size.

This size will store a half-dozen 4 or 5 cavity molds.

They are transparent, so it is easy to see what is inside. The downside is they aren’t cheap, retail about $16.

I find them at the “box” stores for around $10.

They store easily on a closet shelf in the reloading room.

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shootcast posted this 18 June 2017

Richard and I must be the only casters using WD40 or PB blaster for storage. I also wrap the mold with plastic cling wrap. Often the mold is still wet months later. Yes you do have to clean it. But as Richard said. Brake spray cleaner and an old toothbrush. It only takes a minute or so . 

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750k2 posted this 20 May 2017

Cheap tupperware type containers - spray down with Kroil and a wrap of paper towel. Label them and stacked. A spray down with brake cleaner and preheat and cast away.

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John Alexander posted this 18 May 2017

As noted above there is more than one way to skin a cat. 

John

 

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R. Dupraz posted this 18 May 2017

"There is a little blue book out there where the author says he considers cleaning molds foolish fussing"

Self appointed arm chair experts abound everywhere.

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j35nut posted this 18 May 2017

On WD-40-- if you use it don't try to burn it off by heating the mold up It will leave a terrible mess.

There is a little blue book out there where the author says he considers cleaning molds foolish fussing

all you have to do is heat the mold up by dipping a corner in the melt, big mistake with WD-40.

--------J

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j35nut posted this 18 May 2017

I use drug store mineral oil on my molds and then wrapped in plastic  wrap and then stored in ammo cans.

It is 100% reliable with no surprises next year or in ten years. And no fussing in between.

You can clean before use or place on hot plate and when it quits smoking start casting.

Either way no big deal for me, I have time on my hands while waiting for the alloy to melt.

I live on the coast in the Mid-Atlantic region, peace of mind is a wonderful thing.

-------J

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Eutectic posted this 16 May 2017

 

The requirements for mold storage vary greatly with the local conditions. I started casting in Miami Florida, and the combination of high humidity and salt in the air was a terror on guns and bullet molds. Rust Inhibiting Grease “RIG” was the order of the day. I brushed on the RIG on the molds while they were still warm, so the melted grease would soak into every crevice. The penalty for this was the time spent cleaning the mold before use, the mold had to be disassembled and the parts washed in solvent. The benefit was my molds stayed pristine.


The idea you can protect a mold by leaving a bullet in the cavity has been passed around for years. It is supposed to keep air out of the cavity and prevent rust. Unfortunately this is bogus information; a bullet in the cavity offers no protection whatsoever. Molds stored like this in Miami developed rust inside the cavities as well as outside.

 

 

 

Vapor phase inhibitors (VPI) are an easy way to protect your molds. They may not be sufficient in very humid climates, but in average climates they offer good protection for very little effort. The vapor of the chemical offers the protection, so you need a sealed container, and a plastic bag will work well. Vapor phase inhibitors do not affect mold fill out, you can use a mold directly from storage with no cleaning. VPI chemicals are available from Brownells.

 

 

 

My high school friend went to the University of New Mexico in Albuquerque.  When I visited him his molds were stacked on a shelf, no oil at all, and they were in good condition, ready to use. In New Mexico the naturally low humidity protected the molds. I was impressed; he could just pick up a mold and start casting. When I returned home, I experimented with other storage methods to eliminate the cleaning. There are several ways you can store your molds, prevent rust, and yet have them ready to use.

 

 

 

You can provide low humidity by keeping your mold storage box warm. A small light bulb, or low wattage heater will keep the temperature up and the humidity down. This method is very popular in South America. In Brazil, gun storage closets had a small lamp low to the floor which was kept burning. Low wattage rod heaters, made for keeping pianos dry and in tune, can be used for gun or mold storage. These are much safer and longer lasting than light bulbs. I installed a rod heater in my gun closet in Florida.

 

 

 

Humidity can be reduced by using a desiccant. For this, you need an airtight storage box so the desiccant is not quickly exhausted. Most Tupperware-type kitchen boxes do not seal well enough for this use. Good quality military ammo boxes are the cheapest and most durable storage containers I have found. They have the added advantage you can put the molds in while still hot. I use the tall ammo boxes because they fit four cavity molds with the handles on.

 

 

 

Calcium chloride is a desiccant commonly sold in grocery stores. It absorbs water until it is a liquid, it is not reusable. The liquid is very corrosive, even small traces will quickly rust steel; it will even damage some stainless steels. Do not use it!

 

 

 

I use silica gel in cloth bags. I have to regenerate my desiccant bags about once a year. Silica gel is available in granules or small spheres with or without indicator. The granules should be spread in a layer one granule deep and heated for 1 hour at 250° F. The regenerated material should be immediately placed in a glass or metal container and sealed while hot. When cool it can be quickly transferred to paper or cloth bags for use.     

 

 

 

The ability to use a mold directly from storage without the need to clean it is a tremendous timesaver and fully repays the effort needed to set up storage so oiling the mold is not needed. I now have to degrease my molds only once, after initial purchase.

 

 

 

Steve Hurst

 

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John Alexander posted this 15 May 2017

I don't have the patience to clean oil or any other rust preventive off of mold when I want to use them.  Getting the stuff off new molds is enough of a pita.  Storing the last bullet in the mold is an old wives take that will eventually get you a rusted mold.  I believed it 60 years ago and found out.

I keep my molds in a big (20mm cannon I think) ammo can and a desiccant that I rejuvenate once in a while by heating in the oven for  3 of hours a couple of time a year.  Once heated, the first bullet will be good -- no cleaning. That worked in Maine where humidity is sometimes high.  Now that I am the high desert of Oregon it my not even be necessary.

Everybody to their own poison.

John

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calinb posted this 15 May 2017

I spray and wipe down my molds with either of two products popular for virtually eliminating corrosion in aviation. Either Corrosion-X or ACF-50 does the job very well. I buy Corrosion-X in the 1 gal. jug and use it to refill my pump spray bottle. They creep so they work well as penetrating oils and they work great as electrical contract cleaners too. I use them on my battery terminals, etc.. Corrosion-X has an gun oil product, and I use it sometimes, but I prefer the original formula (that I buy by the gallon) for freeing lead fouling from barrels, myself.

I have no involvement in either of these two competing companies. I just found out about them from my aviation background.

 

-Cal

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