Indicator Light On Lee Pot

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  • Last Post 26 May 2020
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cove posted this 05 May 2020

When casting using a Lee pot, I wait till the pot is up to temp(not on) before casting. The way I do this is by waiting till the hum of the element stops. This has worked, but an indicator light would be much better. I sent off to Ebay for an indicator light but it would not handle the watts. Any suggestions?

 

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 05 May 2020

are you hooking your indicator bulb into the heating coil circuit ? ...  if so you need a bulb rated for the maximum voltage of that circuit.  the bulb determines it's own wattage depending on the voltage to it.  ( the bulb has internal resistance built in so that it doesn't run away and blow up  )  

most simple heater coils are at 115 volts, so a house lamp bulb would work. ( a 15 watt night light bulb would be least obnoxious ) .  maybe your ebay test bulb was for 12 volt car circuits ?? ...

or .. i bot a lyman lead thermometer and used it twice until i just learned when my pot was real hot ...  maybe the smell ( g ) .

hoping this helps, simple is always better.

simple ken

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BigMan54 posted this 05 May 2020

Can you hook up a 4w night light bulb ?

Long time Caster/Reloader, Getting back into it after almost 10yrs. Life Member NRA 40+yrs, Life S.A.S.S. #375. Does this mean a description of me as a fumble-fingered knuckle-draggin' baboon. I also drool in my sleep. I firmly believe that true happiness is a warm gun. Did I mention how much I HATE auto-correct on this blasted tablet.

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cove posted this 06 May 2020

I thought that maybe someone had used a high current indicator light from some 110 volt appliance, or how about when building a PID. I think Lyman pots used to have a small light, but it seems all modern pots have gone digital.  Yes, a 4w night light would work, but I was hoping for a light that would mount in the Lee pot mount.  Guess I will just stick with the hum. Thanks for the imput.

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Dale53 posted this 06 May 2020

My casting set up is in my Utility Barn behind our house. It is heated and cooled (built from the ground up as a workshop for casting, etc.). when I prepare for casting, I simply put my bullet mould on a particular setting on my hot plate, and fill my lead pot with bullet metal ingots, set it at the temp best suited to my alloy and mold. Then, I simply go in the house for thirty minutes. When the time is up, I start casting. Just time your set up, give a bit extra to account for slightly varying amounts of bullet metal, and go to work!

FWIW

Dale53

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358156hp posted this 25 May 2020

I run my pots with a PID, so I have plenty of lights, and a digital readout & everything cool

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Boschloper posted this 26 May 2020

Dale53's 1/2 hour trick has been working for me for a lot of years.

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cove posted this 26 May 2020

I have done it again - not made myself clear. What I meant is that during a casting session, after the pot has reached the desired temperature and I have been casting for a while, it would be handy to know if the pot is in a heat cycle, therefore maybe not up to temp. Upon thinking about my casting technique, I have decided it may not be that important, since I cast at 800 degrees and do not add lead during a session,although I do drop sprues back in immediately after cutting. Therfore the pot is in a heating cycle almost all the time.  Yes a PID would be nice, but  I have good results so will continue as is for the time being.  Anyway, thanks for your input.

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