Need Accurate Molds mould recommendation for new 30BR rifle

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  • Last Post 02 January 2019
Slug Gun posted this 26 December 2018

I’m planning a 30BR rifle build and would like to get an Accurate Molds bullet mould on order. The barrel twist will be 11” to 1. Barrel is on order. I’m sure there are one or two molds that stand out as being very accurate for this cartridge.

Suggestions ?

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frnkeore posted this 26 December 2018

 This is what the top shooters in the PNW use:

Accurate Molds 310230E

It's Accurate's MX-4 30 ARD Mold

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Slug Gun posted this 26 December 2018

Just E or E2 or E3 ?  THANKS for the help. 

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frnkeore posted this 26 December 2018

Just E is all that it has in the match results.

Frank

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onondaga posted this 27 December 2018

Slug Gun,

 

Whatever you get, I'd recommend you try one that definitely has a long bearing area fit to your throat for a slide fit and one inexpensive mold with particular optional choices is the Lee TL309-230-5R as it has a boat-tail for Very high BC and that same boat-tail will also fit a gas check for higher load levels giving you 2 load level routes to explore accuracy without compromise. Mine actually drops .3115" and I shoot it UN-sized/tumble lubed and no gas check in my Rem Spartan 7.62X39 single shot with better than just nice accuracy.

Gary

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Ross Smith posted this 27 December 2018

I was going to recommend the mx4 .30a version which is a little shorter and fatter than the mx4 30ard.Both have tapered necks to fit a tapered throat. I shoot mine in a 308x1.625 , just a little longer than the 30br. Mine is 14' twist and has a long tapered throat of 311 to 308. The 11" twist might favor the mx4 30ard. I also recommend a hard alloy. I shoot 3:1 linotype to wheel weights and about 2-2200 fps. NOE makes a copy also.

I shoot the mx3 30ar in my 14" twist 30-06 which has a very short throat. These 2 and the one mentioned by frankeore are all john Ardito designs and accurate molds copies several Ardito-Eagan designs. Check out the scores in the back of the fouling shot for more ideas.

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muley posted this 27 December 2018

SLUG GUN, what will be the diameter of the neck and what will be the degree of ur throat.? I would suggest looking into a robbenett reamer, which has a .330 neck and use a 1 degree throating reamer. then use the throating reamer to make ur bump die. throat the bullet out so the gas check or a bit more is in the neck. works as a bore ride . good luck with ur endeavor.

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frnkeore posted this 27 December 2018

Muley gives good advice. The neck diameter is dependent on the brass thickness and bullet diameter, you wish to use.

A .330 case neck would be for .010 brass thickness and a .309/.310 bullet. If you have the brass, size it, to get the brass thickness, using a expander, the size of your bullet, plus .001, for spring back. .332 is fine, for your chamber neck, if you want to shoot .311/.312 bullets. Or you can turn the case necks to .009.

You'll probably need something to turn necks if, you don't already have something.

The 1 degree is 1 degrees per side or 2 deg included. That is what the taper on the MX-4 30 ARD bullet is made to.

There is a bit of fine tuning, to the chamber neck and bullet fit. try things and ask questions at matches.

Frank

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3Lakes posted this 27 December 2018

I would examine the dimensions of the reamer that you plan to use for the 30 BR. It is very important to have the bullet fit the throat of your chamber. Then try to select a mold design that fits those dimensions best. I use Accurate mold design 31-220G in my rifle.I try to seat the bullet just long enough so that I get the riflings to gently engrave the tapered portion of the bullet.   I would carefully select a propellant to match your bullet. Vhitavouri N-135 at about 27-27.5 grains works very well for many shooters. I use Remington primers either 6 1/2 or 7 1/2 and also Fed 205 M. Not much difference that I can discern. 

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Slug Gun posted this 02 January 2019

Thanks to everyone who contributed to my post. It is greatly appreciated and I will use the information to chose a mold. Now I'll need to figure out how bump dies are made. I'll ask that in another post.

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