Once again I've fallen for E-mail advertisement. I'm hoping some of you won't mind a few simple questions and a bit of advice. I'm not an experienced black powder shooter and have previously only had one other BP gun, a reproduction Colt Walker. Yesterday I purchased a Lyman Mustang inline rifle. It's a 50 caliber, twenty six inch barrel with a 1 in 28 twist. It has an over-all length of 42.5" and weighs 11 pounds. Here's my thoughts and questions, please correct me where needed. For powder, I'm thinking the Alliant BMZ and a few of those pellets made for in-lines. I think (don't know) that the twist is too fast for round ball loads and am thinking of these options. Sabots with 44 or 45 caliber bullets, Accurate mould # 51-320, Lee 50-320 Real, Lyman # 504617 or # 508656. Advice? NewBee questions Do you lube the sabots when using them? I've heard that SPG and Darr lube are very similar. Is this true? I have the Lyman Black powder handbook 2nd edition and # 3 and 4 of the cast bullet handbooks. Thanks guys. Gp
New to me BP rifle
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- Last Post 15 March 2018
I don't shoot inlines but have ton of experience with traditional m/l's. If you can find a mold for a 50 cal slug that shoots well you will be way ahead of the cost of sabots and pistol bullets. At least use cast 45's with the sabots to save money. Some of those combo's are a buck or more each! Next, while helping a friend sight in his inline, I noticed he was limited to just 2 loads, 50 and 100 grains equivalent pellets. Use a loose powder such as bp or pyrodex and you gain more versatility. Just my 2 cents, Ross Enjoy!
Thank you Ross for your reply. No, I don't think you'll find me shooting too many $1 rounds out of this rifle.lol I have several 44 and 45 caliber moulds that throw bullets I'd like to try in sabots. This rifle will be used primarily for banging a steel plate and grandson may want to give it a go hunting. For hunting elk, I might just spend the money on a few high price rounds but that's a different thing than plinking.This rifle is capable of using the 150 charge weight but I have no plans for those either. Would still like some thoughts on a favorite mould for solids. Thanks Gp
I have a similar inline, a Knight .50cal. Bighorn, also with a 26" 1:28 twist bbl. While it shoots patched RB's accurately, groups open when powder charges exceed 60gr. FFg. Conical bullets, e.g., Maxi-Balls and Lee REAL's, are accurate, but as with CF rifles and pistols, how well they fit the bore is a most critical factor. (Btw, if they're a too narrow or fit your bore sloppily, you can paper patch them.) As for sabot, I've only used MMP sabots (unlubed) and they do leave plastic fouling behind. However, the .50cal. green high pressure ones + Lyman #429421 grouped impressively @ 50 yd.
Thank you Maven. I have the NOE clone of the Lyman #429421. I see you can buy sabots for the 50s that are for either 44 or 45 caliber bullets. That should give me a wide range of bullets to try that I already have on hand. Enjoy the day. Gp
I forgot to elaborate on this yesterday, but Maxi-Balls, specifically those cast from Thompson Center molds v. Lyman, have been more dimensionally consistent and a better fit in my rifle. Needless to say, they were very accurate too, and left no plastic fouling behind. OTOH, with real BP or Pyrodex RS, you'll have to damp patch the bore after every other shot if tou want peak accuracy and easier seating.
P.S. I got poor accuracy from T/C factory cast hollow point Maxi-Balls in my rifle using the same loads as the solid, home cast T/C Maxi-s
Maven: I have shoot and sold several bullets from the Lee mould.We use soft lead,bore slug barrel with one,measure, if to small powdercoat with Hi-tek superlube,may take several coats toget proper fit.We powder coat all,even RB,s,I think it helps with BP fouling.I have coated RB,s and not used a patch,won several Rendezvous matches with coated RB,s.I shoot, buy,sell and trade primitive front stuffers,rifles& smoothbores, they are more fun then inlines. Thank you---Nosee
GP, if you are inexperienced, a few tricks go a long way:
1, Be sure to put silicone dielectric grease or never seize on the plug threads every time you clean the rifle or it will stick bad.
2. A solid bullet that fits well will shoot better than any sabot combo.
4. The 320 REAL is generously oversize as needed for the design to engrave on loading but only cast them in pure lead or they are very hard to load. Use a ball starter to start with a hard rap, a combination ball starter with 1/4" and 6" starts works well.
5 Higher than 90 gr with the 320 REALs is out of the design range of the bullet for accuracy, they definitely have a power range they like, I shoot them with 85 gr BMZ, and two .060 veggie wads . I put a dab of Bore Butter over the started veggie wads before starting the bullet. The Veg wads scrub the bore on the way down and protect the bullet base from fire and make a big difference in accuracy. I use these:
Don't bother with the REALs if you don't get and use the veggie wads, they make a huge difference in accuracy. The combination of BMZ, and the veggie wads with BoreButter over them shoots so cleanly, you can easily shoot 50 times at the range with zero bore maintenance. Follow BMZ instructions, seat the bullet very firmly, I use an analog bathroom scale under the rifle butt and seat to 80 pounds.
Just an aside: I went shooting today and did some digging around in the freshly torn berm behind the targets. There were a lot of the plastic sabots mixed in and buried in the dirt! In other words, the sabot stayed on the slug 100yards to the target! Not the best for accuracy .I try to get inline shooters to shoot naked slugs just for economy but maybe accuracy too?
GP, the veggie wads I recommended are very hard and coarse and nicely oversize for 50 Cal. They do scrub the bore well on the way down. Don't substitute with felt wads, felt will only protect the bullet from fire but they do not scrub the bore at all compared to a veggie wad. At $20/1,000 the veggie wads are cheap even with shipping and make a huge difference.
You can buy the 44cal sabots for your rifle they are the ones that are green. The black sabots are for 45's. and I've seen white ones but cant remember what they were for, maybe 40's. Of course the inline barrels are actually 50 cal and the sabos reduce the sizing down so you can use the smaller projectiles.
I usually use cast pistol bullets and they dont have to be lubed because they have that sabot jacketing them down the barrel You can use jacketed bullets too if you want.
Just thinking here, and you can use round balls if you want . You could use 40's 44's and 45's the same way with the appropriate sabos if you'd want. you could even go to a 50 cal round ball if you'd prefer. Just patch it with the proper thickness patch, lube the patch, I like plain old spit, and slid her down the barrel. That is a tight twist so it may not be the most accurate but give her a try it might surprize you.
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