I'd like to pass along my attempts to get the NOE nose sizing bushings working a little better and would like to hear what the rest of you have found that might help. I'm a big fan of NOE tools and moulds but I know there are concerns by many that the system is flawed and bullets don't leave the die with noses concentric with the drive bands but I can't worry about too many things at once and for now I'm just working on getting proper leverage with the press and size the noses the same amount each time. First, having Lee push through size dies in both .356 and .358 I cut down one of the push rams leaving just 1/4” of the .350 shaft. This gets you to a better point of leverage on the press stroke. Next to get the nose sized the same length each time, (You machinists go ahead and laugh, I'm an old carpenter) I cut some pieces of 1” wooden dowel in increments of about .010 between about .750 and .900 and drilled out the centers with a 7/16” bit. These are just short thick walled tubes and sit on top of my Rock Chuckers ram surrounding the shortened ram punch. This provides a stop between the top of the ram and the bottom of the Noe bushing die. I know this could be better made if machined from metal stock but works well for using the scrap I had and carpentry tools. I would like to hear what others are doing to make the system work a little better. Thanks Gp
The NOE nose sizing system
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- Last Post 09 February 2017
It would be a simple matter to make a metal sleeve to do what you describe. I have made sleeves that slip over the push pins and are a little longer for the calibers that I have. Then the bullets self-align with the nose bushing when nose sizing instead of just sitting on top of the pin.
I like your idea of using the sleeve as a stop. Never thought of that. I have nose bushings for my 30's, 7mm's and now .22's. When sizing for first two, I can feel when the front of the first driving band stops against the bottom of the nose bushing. But, I'm finding that not so much with the very small thin driving bands on those 22's. So, think that I'll make a longer sleeve that will also act as a stop for those and see if that will cure the problem
RCBS 7mm-145-Sil with the nose sized down .003” with an NOE nose sizing bushing
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I put washers on the push pins, not the best solution, but it works. Need an adjustable thing to go on push pin.
joe b.
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R.D. and Joe: thanks for your replies. I'm getting along a little better with this system with more experience. One thing that I've noticed is that if you make the stop so the bullet gets sized to just .020 or so forward of the first band I have a lot less problems with deforming the bullet. As mentioned earlier by R.D. I believe this system would work better if the die body didn't extend so far below the press. If it were all-thread one could adjust it up far enough to both get to the cam over part of the press and also adjust the amount the bullet was sized for length. Maybe one of the machinists here could make a prototype die body. Also R.D. your STP tip for lube works very well with the bushings I've been able to wipe of the bullets with a little alcohol on a rag and still get my PC to stick. Thank you. Gp
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gp: refer to new thread: >> joint project sizer dies
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Thanks for the pictures Joe. Your way ahead of me on this. Swaging has been on my mind for quite some time. One of my ideas for making the NOE dies work Would be to use a C&H style press and just turn lengthened support rods to allow more throw in the press. This of course gets us into major expense. Ken opined that he'd like to keep the sum to around $40 and at that figure I believe the use of the Lee flaring tool and turned inserts as the NOE neck expanding plugs. Gp
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I think keeping it under 40 bucks is a very reasonable goal. Lots of guys like me who can't afford spend tools.
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