Lee Moulds?

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  • Last Post 10 October 2009
barnabus posted this 02 June 2008

Im new to casting as Im still getting my equitment together.I have a RCBS furnance and a sizer and thats it so far.I have always been loyal to RCBS but gosh they sure are proud of their moulds in comparison with everyone else. I want to offer up my needs and my intentions if you will tell me what would be the best route for me to take.

Here goes..I will be casting for 38/357-44mag-45 acp and 45 LC.I am not one who at the moment who shoots pistols alot but would like to shoot more often but jacketed bullets are ridiculus in price. I do not intend to compete with any of these rounds,just looking to shoot more at a reduced cost while having a decent amount of accuracy. At RCBS prices it would put me over $300 for these 4 moulds and top punches ect. Lee moulds are much cheaper.Here is my question..

Would Lee moulds suffice for what I am going to do and what is the difference in quality? I know they are made of aluminium but is this a disadvantage for someone with my interest?

 

Thanks!

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tturner53 posted this 10 October 2009

In the past I've bad mouthed some of my Lee molds here, and praised the ones I liked. Today I cast up about 150 Lee 358-140-SWC with ww + tiny bit tin, using my Lee Production Pot,  The mold and pot are both over 20 yrs. old, well used, and performed great. The bullets are within .0005” of round, according to my best effort at measuring them. The bullets dropped from the mold easily, often without even tapping with a stick. The weight variation is within 2 grains, which I figured out is the sprue variation. Some of them have an “outy” and some an “inny", probably a technique issue but the sprue screw did need tightening and I just let it go. I'll be testing them in handguns and a Marlin 1894C using loads I picked up here or on another site. They will be tumble lubed only as they are a consistent .358. As a side note, I also use a Lee ingot mold that's old as hell and still works fine. A trick I learned is to wrap your sprue plate knocker stick with duct tape, keeps it from splintering over time.

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72coupe posted this 09 August 2009

I had the same problem with my new 314299 mould a couple weeks ago. I used my VLD Lyman chamfering tool on the holes opposite the alignment pins.

Solved the problem altogether and just a light touch is all it takes.

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biddulph posted this 08 August 2009

Hi all,

I have just bought Lyman molds in .314 (for .303 British) and .375 for H and H.

.314 mold has developed a wee gap so that lead leaks out between the mold halfs around the nose of the bullet. This is thin: I can cut it off with my thumb nail.

When I close the empty mold and put it up to the light I can see daylight comming in. when I do this with the .375 mold all I get is dark.

Any ideas? I'v checked for lead on mold faces, scrubbed the mold with a cotton cloth etc.

cheers

James

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Balhincher posted this 02 August 2009

Ranch Dog wrote:  I've bought the Bullshop Sprue Plate lube but stopped using it as I couldn't keep from getting it in the bullet cavities. The polishing has made the need for the lube a non-issue.

I tried Bull Plate lube on a new aluminum mold recently.  The instructions said to wipe it with a Q tip on top of the heated mold with bullets in the cavities and on the underside of the sprue plate.  And then wipe off excess with another dry Q tip.  Perhaps I put too much on the mold and plate but since doing that I have been unable to get a bullet from that mold that didn't have wrinkles.  After casting for quite a while I cooled the mold and scrubbed it with brake parts cleaner then another good scrubbing in soapy water.  Still I am getting wrinkled bullets after using the mold for at least two hours.  Usually, after casting this long a mold will be dropping wrinkle free bullets.  Having no experience with Bull plate lube I'm wondering if I got some of it in the cavities and it is causing my wrinkling problem.  The stuff must be formulated to stay put on a hot mold to lube correctly so is it harder than the usual oil contamination to remove or burn off by casting?  Ranch Dog, when you got the Bull plate lube in the cavities of your molds, how did you get it out?  Did it cause wrinkled bullets?

I hesitate to blame this stuff since a lot of people use it and seem to like it so if it is causing my problem it is probably because I used it wrong.  But something is causing  wrinkled bullets that I can't seem to fix.

I've cast at temperatures from 550 deg to 700 with an alloy that is WW with a little tin.  Have tried other molds with this metal and it makes perfect bullets from these molds right away.  So it seems the problem is the new mold.  The mold itself looks great and is very well made so I believe the problem is some kind of contamination.

I've searched out and read a lot of comments on the Forum about getting a new mold ready to cast and how to remove the oil residue left from its manufacture or oil applied to preserve the mold.  But other than the quote from Ranch Dog above I haven't seen anyone comment on what happens if Bull plate lube gets into the mold cavities.   I have more trouble getting a new mold casting wrinkle free bullets than any other time but this one seems particularly ornery.  Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

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excess650 posted this 02 August 2009

I've used Lee molds in single, double and 6 cavity.  The 6 cavity molds are the best constructed with their cam operated sprue cutter and conventional alignment pins.  The single and double cavity molds can work OK, but seem to need “handled with kid gloves".  I don't care for their alignment configuration or thin sprue cutter.

I was casting with a new Lee double cavity last evening.  Its a Ranch Dog design .379” and it cast pretty well.  I had a couple of instances where the blocks didn't line up perfectly and ended with bullets with fins on edges and top.  I tried being as careful as possible, had already used a lube stick on the pins and a pencil on the underside of the sprue plate.  When I was satisfied that I had enough bullets for testing, I tried another new Lee that I just found in my stash.  It was the C309-130 lighweight 30cal, and single cavity.  It had been cleaned at the same time as the double and received the same treatment.  I couldn't cast good bullets with it at the max 730*F the Lee 20# makes, and it was the same alloy as the other mold.....

I picked up an older Lee double cavity and was able to cast OK with it.  It was a 38-105SWC, for the 38Spl and such.  I've found it to be a VERY accurate bullet in the 38spl, and recall that this was the 2nd that I had bought.  The first was “used to death” and the alignment pins rattled out of it.  This one has a modification that I had forgotten about.  I ADDED a conventional alignment pin at the bottom between the cavities, so must have had a problem, but works better now.  Yeah, Lee molds suck :Xcompared to Lyman, RCBS and their predecessor Ohaus, Saeco, NEI, LBT.  Its too bad, really, as they have some bullet designs that work well.

 

 

 

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CB posted this 31 July 2009

Barnabus

You can't do any better than what these Casters gave you on Lee molds. The only thing I might say is start with a a single or double mold and strive for perfect bullets. Later if you try a Lee 6 cavity realize you must have slick to amazing technique to reduce the number of culls you will cast. I cast with Ideal/Lyman 4 cavities relatively easy with allot fewer culls. Culls go back in the pot later.

Stephen Perry

Angeles BR:fire

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[email protected] posted this 30 July 2009

Stephen,

I cast some pure lead 125 grain Lee .358 to shoot out of my old Colt Police Positive 38 S +W along with some .445 round balls for my flintlock. As I said I always use two Lee molds while casting to make sure they cool. If just the least little bit to hot they smear lead across the top like crazy. Expensive molds do the same thing but not near as bad as the Lees. Lee molds are about done for if it happens.

Anyhow, pure lead is hard to cast and I couldn't get good bullets. I got frustrated, got a pan of water, added dish soap,set it to boiling on my shop hot plate,threw the molds in and let them boil for about an hour while I worked on something else. I then scrubbed them out with a clean tooth brush then dried them good with a heat gun. When a Lee mold is new it needs smoked, but after its been used and then cleaned I find it doesn't need resmoked. After cleaning, the balls and bullets came out beutiful.

The alignment keys of a Lee mold need lubed so that they close properly,but that can also leed to lube getting in the cavity no matter how carefull one is. Melted lube will go where it will. Mixing with the smoke ya put in there to make the mold throw nice bullets just makes a gue that needs cleaned out.

One cavity of my wadcutter mold started throwing a funky bullet a while back. No amount of resmoking helped. I cleaned the mold and resmoked it. All that did was make the funkiness somewhere else on the bullets. Cleaned it again; this time not resmoking. It now throws perfect bullets.

I think the initial smoking of a mold acts as kind of an oil dry, sucking the oil out of the pores of the mold. Once the smoke does its job and the cavity gets broke in, getting ride of the smoke helps. Adding more smoke just junks things up again.

Enough about Lee molds. I think I'll go shoot that old 38. Flashman   

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[email protected] posted this 30 July 2009

Stephen,

I cast some pure lead 125 grain Lee .358 to shoot out of my old Colt Police Positive 38 S +W along with some .445 round balls for my flintlock. As I said I always use two Lee molds while casting to make sure they cool. If just the least little bit to hot they smear lead across the top like crazy. Expensive molds do the same thing but not near as bad as the Lees. Lee molds are about done for if it happens.

Anyhow, pure lead is hard to cast and I couldn't get good bullets. I got frustrated, got a pan of water, added dish soap,set it to boiling on my shop hot plate,threw the molds in and let them boil for about an hour while I worked on something else. I then scrubbed them out with a clean tooth brush then dried them good with a heat gun. When a Lee mold is new it needs smoked, but after its been used and then cleaned I find it doesn't need resmoked. After cleaning, the balls and bullets came out beutiful.

The alignment keys of a Lee mold need lubed so that they close properly,but that can also leed to lube getting in the cavity no matter how carefull one is. Melted lube will go where it will. Mixing with the smoke ya put in there to make the mold throw nice bullets just makes a gue that needs cleaned out.

One cavity of my wadcutter mold started throwing a funky bullet a while back. No amount of resmoking helped. I cleaned the mold and resmoked it. All that did was make the funkiness somewhere else on the bullets. Cleaned it again; this time not resmoking. It now throws perfect bullets.

I think the initial smoking of a mold acts as kind of an oil dry, sucking the oil out of the pores of the mold. Once the smoke does its job and the cavity gets broke in getting ride of the smoke helps. Adding more smoke just junks things up again.

Enough about Lee molds. I think I'll go shoot that old 38. Flashman   

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CB posted this 26 July 2009

Flashman

Thanks for the Post. I also use Lyman and Lee. I have a new in the box Lyman 311340 in 2 cavity. Yesterday I cast 30 bullets took me a while to see that I needed more heat. Also I cut off the air to the mold and now the bases are filled out.

I want to clean the mold as I see blotches on the cast. The scratches on the ogives will work in later. I'm not in to buying a $12 can of mold cleaner so I will be my own chemist again. This time i will mix some Kroil with Rubbing Alcohol first and if that's not enough Kroil and White Gas. I don't have any more kerosene or I would use it. Just want to clean the mold for now before they take a set. Like to hear from lino and Ed on this one.

Stephen Perry

Angeles BR:fire

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[email protected] posted this 26 July 2009

I appreciate my Seaco and Lyman molds. They throw correct size bullets. The Seaco is to heavy and will wear you out. Being of steel or cast iron though one has to figure out a way to keep them from rusting. I spray them with WD40 or another lube of that type to prevent rust. The lube has to be removed before using them again. Thats a disadvantage. Advantage of the Lee mold is I find I don't have to do that. I just set the Lee down when I'm done casting;pick it up again I when start casting. If you buy the Lees buy two of whatever bullets you want. When casting I allow one to cool while I'm filling the other. I keep them lubed as Lee instructs, and I clean them in boiling soap and water scrubbing them with a clean toothbrush now and then. I've cast thousands of pistol bullets with my Lees and they are doing fine. If you need a lot of pistol bullets for competition etc. consider the 6 cavity. Mine makes great bullets but you need to make sure it is cool before opening it. All my Lee molds are pistol molds. The  Lee rifle molds I tried were't worth buying compared to my Lymans and Seacos. Consider it a priveledge to be able to shoot enough to wear out any bullet mold. Flashman

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[email protected] posted this 26 July 2009

I appreciate my Seaco and Lyman molds. They throw correct size bullets. The Seaco is to heavy and will wear you out. Being of steel or cast iron though one has to figure out a way to keep them from rusting. I spray them with WD40 or another lube of that type to prevent rust. The lube has to be removed before using them again. Thats a disadvantage. Advantage of the Lee mold is I find I don't have to do that. I just set the Lee down when I'm done casting;pick it up again I when start casting. If you buy the Lees buy two of whatever bullets you want. When casting I allow one to cool while I'm filling the other. I keep them lubed as Lee instructs, and I clean them in boiling soap and water scrubbing them with a clean toothbrush now and then. I've cast thousands of pistol bullets with my Lees and they are doing fine. If you need a lot of pistol bullets for competition etc. consider the 6 cavity. Mine makes great bullets but you need to make sure it is cool before opening it. All my Lee molds are pistol molds. The  Lee rifle molds I tried were't worth buying compared to my Lymans and Seacos. Consider it a priveledge to be able to shoot enough to wear out any bullet mold. Flashman

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CB posted this 23 July 2009

Lee Mold

I feel my single molds cast as well as any Lyman I own. I would stay away from gang molds for awhile until you can handle the pace.

Stephen Perry

Angeles BR:fire

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Win52D posted this 23 July 2009

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Win52D posted this 23 July 2009

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Win52D posted this 23 July 2009

I use the Lee 6 cavity moulds for the .45ACP.  The tumble lube design is a joy to use.  I have been able to get 1” groups at 25yds with a standard SA 1911A1.  I have been using the mould for about 18 years....yes there is wear on the tops of the blocks but it still casts fine.  I don't expect it to last as long as a cast iron mould but then again....it's been 18 years....  Like anything else....if you take care of it and treat it right any bullet mould will last long enough to give you a great return on investment.

I use Lyman, NEI and RCBS for my .223 Rem and 357 Maximum.  I have yet to find a bullet style from Lee that I like for these caliber.

One type for cleaning the Lee moulds.  I use bullet lube to lubricate the pivot joints of the handles and sprue plate.  This leaves a stain on the inside of the mould faces where the air vents are.  I use Easy-Off (No fumes) in the blue can to clean them...works great!

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Ranch Dog posted this 10 June 2008

3100Loren wrote: This is really interesting, but being that I am kind of new to casting, as I am sure there are others out there who are too, I find your descriptions of the techniques to be a little abstract.  I think some pictures to go along with the text would make for an interesting “How to tune up your Lee Mouldâ€? primer.  I have been to your web site, and it is great.  I believe I would be willing to pay to get a down load that I could print out ”€œ just a thought.

 

Loren

Good idea and this is easy stuff to accomplish... taking just a few minutes. Pictures and text take time and I will work on it as I can.

Here is one picture that I have on my laptop of a polished mold. You can see the areas that I worked...

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3100Loren posted this 10 June 2008

This is really interesting, but being that I am kind of new to casting, as I am sure there are others out there who are too, I find your descriptions of the techniques to be a little abstract.  I think some pictures to go along with the text would make for an interesting “How to tune up your Lee Mouldâ€? primer.  I have been to your web site, and it is great.  I believe I would be willing to pay to get a down load that I could print out ”€œ just a thought.

 

Loren

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linoww posted this 10 June 2008

Ranch Dog wrote: linoww wrote: Yes sir-ee.Those are the ones i have trouble getting apart. Needle nose Vise Grips..

AH HA!!

I will try to resurect my Lee .22 “Bator” mold tonight.

Thanks abunch.

George

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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Ranch Dog posted this 10 June 2008

linoww wrote: Yes sir-ee.Those are the ones i have trouble getting apart. Needle nose Vise Grips..

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linoww posted this 10 June 2008

I've run across several molds, with the Ranch Dog business, that have the heads of the sprue plate screw stripped. Yes sir-ee.Those are the ones i have trouble getting apart.

Lee sent me a kit to correct this kind of stuff. Was  it a certificate for a better quality mold ?      Just kidding   ;-) Thanks for the help.Sounds like you use the Lee's more than any of my casting buddies do.Do you use any other brand of molds or are you a 100% Lee guy??

George

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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