i was thinking about taking a round nose mould, and drilling a hole in the center of the bullet cavity so i could insert a ice pick, philips screwdriver or something to make my own hollow point bullets. other then figuring out something for a stop so i don't go the whole lenght of the bullet, what do y'all think
making a hollow point mould
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- Last Post 27 June 2010
Very impressive indeed, I take it that is a soft nose projectile being pure or nearly so.
One of the most important things to remember when ordering a “Hollow” point mold is to make sure the pins that form the hollow point are “Hardened Steel", nothing else! Without hardened steel there will be sticking of the bullets in the mold that will basically never go away and drive you NUTS! Making the casting of hollow points can be really enjoyable IF!!!
BTW, stainless steel is NOT hardened steel!
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Mr. Harris, Is that a 311291? Did you drill the HP or is it a modified mold? Very impressive expansion. Thanks
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Cup point .30s expand well in water jugs too!
73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia
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"there is usually a bit of a problem with hollow point molds in keeping the hollow point needle hot enough"
I havent been running into that problem with HP's The only one that occasionally gets funky for me is a 424424 with a large HP and it's a matter of keeping the metal flowing a bit longer into the sprue hole before backing out.
"you can always drill a HP in the bullet after it's cast"
A HP mold is easier than the drill method i think especially Eriks Cramer conversions.In 22's a deep HP is devestating,but a small cup pont has done very well in 30's with softer alloy when tested in wet sand.
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you can always drill a HP in the bullet after it's cast.
..
Hi, I 2nd that motion with you on the idea of drilling the hollowpoint ... there is usually a bit of a problem with hollow point molds in keeping the hollow point needle hot enough ...
And about 30 hollow points a year would hold most hunting requirements.
Besides, a shooter will usually find that a large flat front end will perform real good for hunting, and water filled milk bottles, also !! ( plastic varmint shooting (g))
get yerself a chinese adjustable, handle operated 5c collet holder from harbor freight etc, and you can interchange 5c collets from 1/8 to 1.1 inches, for future projects, not just hollow pointing. will do custom neck sizing, as Lee idea, also. get one heavy enough to stabilize under drill press. Maybe $60 for fixture and first cheap collet ??
just a thought. ken campbell, deltawerkes
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you can always drill a HP in the bullet after it's cast. ..
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thats not far from me, won't make a trip just for it but i go out that way every once in a while, only thing is, that i have lee moulds and i didn't see any modiffied if i mess it up well i would cost the same to replace it as if i was to send it out and get it done.
I think the lee molds have the aligenment “dealio's” at the bottom that wont allow you to get a pin straight to the cavity.
George
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thats not far from me, won't make a trip just for it but i go out that way every once in a while, only thing is, that i have lee moulds and i didn't see any modiffied if i mess it up well i would cost the same to replace it as if i was to send it out and get it done.
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Try Erik Ohlen in Corvallis Oregon.
There's no point in tearing-up a mold -- unless you want to pay to stumble into mistakes.
I have a few of Erik's molds. I like every one of them. I couldn't begin to reproduce his work.
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Try Erik Ohlen in Corvallis Oregon.its only $34 inlcuding shipping for a Lyman type HP.I've had him do 6 or 8 for me as well as repairs and opening up individual driving bands.Cant say enough good about his work.
george
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